Ok time for another question, so as you may have seen Wolf-E's wedge isn't flush with the ground as the side panels are. And was wondering the possibility of making the wedge flush by making the panel long and angle grinding the excess off, like in this picture:
Screen Shot 2017-07-21 at 19.16.20.png
I'll have to add a bevel to the wedge to stop it snagging the edges of arena floor panels anyway but I though I ask people more experienced with Hardox.
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So after a late night and lots of maths I've got the current calculated weight of Wolf-E.
The weight is looking to be about 8.8kg leaving 4.8kg to play with. Currently its size will be 25.5cm x 38cm x 10cm.
The previous weight and size was 9.8kg with 3.8kg spare. The size was 29.5cm x 38cm x 10cm.
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A slightly shorter length Wolf-E? Shedding 4cm in length and moving internals back a bit.
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Power light fitted and works (might change the colour), Wolf-E now complies fully with FRA regulations. Baring any faults Wolf-E is finished electronic wise. Did a full arming test, removable link works, power works, motors work, ESCs work, receiver works.
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Did some rewiring, managed to use the housing for the fuse holder to make changing fuse easier.
I also made a second removable link with a shorter wire to neaten it and stop it sticking out so far from its insert slot.
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Originally posted by Roboteernat View PostYes, disconect negative side last allows to 'discharge'?!
but yes could happen either positive or neg but your more likely going to have a connection made after your electronics than before, meaning you could blow us stuff unintentionally.
(your electronics are still live sided with the removable link on the negative side)
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Yes, disconect negative side last allows to 'discharge'?!
but yes could happen either positive or neg but your more likely going to have a connection made after your electronics than before, meaning you could blow us stuff unintentionally.
(your electronics are still live sided with the removable link on the negative side)
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Originally posted by overkill View PostEither side will do - I think its just a psychological thing to put the link on the positive side
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Originally posted by Roboteernat View PostIts common place to place it (or any switches) in the positive side otherwise your circuitry could be positively powered and a misplaced spanner or broken chasis connecting some electronics/frame to 0v on the battery could still mean the circuit is live.
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Originally posted by Maxamuslead View Postbit off topic but does the removable link have to on the positive side as it doesn't state in the build rules one way or the other in the build rules unless I missed a bit or is it simply preferred to be on that side.
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Either side will do - I think its just a psychological thing to put the link on the positive side
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bit off topic but does the removable link have to on the positive side as it doesn't state in the build rules one way or the other in the build rules unless I missed a bit or is it simply preferred to be on that side.
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