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Team Coolspeedbot: first feather weight robot

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  • R9000
    replied
    I guess your only options are: find a format that can be opened in a CAD program that can generate the DXF files you need, or redraw the parts in a CAD program, using measurements from your original drawings.

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    doesn't have the file format.

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    I'll have a look.

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  • TechAUmNu
    replied
    Can you export it as a step file? Then you can use another program to do the drawing.

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    So it appears that I can't export the DXF with a specific plane selected. RIP me

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    I don't think so, plus I'm using 2015

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  • Roboteernat
    replied
    is there a way to specify plane when creating the dxf? our Maya specialist at work is away today so cant ask him.

    although looking, export dxf from maya is not possible in 2017 but 2018 is. unless uyou have a plugin. perhaps there is a setting within the plugin to orientate output plane?

    https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/maya-...f/td-p/6717359
    Last edited by Roboteernat; 4 September 2017, 15:14.

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  • shakesc
    replied
    Not much help but I output my dxf through emachine shop. 1 file per part
    Always worked fine with kcut

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    Could someone who has used DXF files before for getting parts cut tell me how I'm messing up the orientation of the parts.

    I'm told this orientation is the top profile and need the front.


    But when I orientate it to what I think is the front the profile is still wrong.



    So what the hell am I doing wrong?

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    Ok thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll look at adding a cover to the hole it looks to be the most straight forward.

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  • RogueTwoRobots
    replied
    The link looks fine where it is. A couple of options to try and prevent it popping out include putting a small hinged cover over the hole that you can swivel down once the link is in place, or even just covering the hole with a piece of duct tape. If you make the loop of wire on the link end out of stiffer wire or a long loop, you can also use that to push against the chassis somewhere inside so that it can't physically pop out.

    In all honesty, links popping out in smaller weightclass bots are few and far between. It seemed bad in RW Series 1/8 but people weren't as familiar with the shock forces going through heavyeweights then as it had been a decade since HW spinners last competed, so link mounting methods weren't perhaps as robust or well thought out as they could have been.

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  • Ocracoke
    replied
    however would a raised profile not just give something for spinners to bite on?
    Depends on how big the raised profile is and how thick the raise is. I don't think it'll provide that big a biting point for spinners to hit and if it does hit, without the raise, it could mean the difference between the link staying in and being ripped out.

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  • TechAUmNu
    replied
    To do it you can just get another piece of hardox cut and bolt it on over the existing stuff. It would give that area much more strength, however would a raised profile not just give something for spinners to bite on?

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  • Coolspeedbot
    replied
    Originally posted by Ocracoke View Post
    I think it works where it is but I would add potentially add a raised profile around the edge, so it has a tunnel around it leading to the link (doesn't have to be very tall, just thick I would think to be of benefit). That would help protect it I think.
    I don't think I know how to achieve it.

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  • Ocracoke
    replied
    So as the issue has been raised, is there any suggestions on where to place the removable link and how to better protect it?
    I think it works where it is but I would add potentially add a raised profile around the edge, so it has a tunnel around it leading to the link (doesn't have to be very tall, just thick I would think to be of benefit). That would help protect it I think.

    Leave a comment:

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