Team Coolspeedbot: first feather weight robot

[Coolspeedbot]

So unless someone knows of somewhere I could have got the HPDE cut and drilled for me I'm just going to give HPDE the elbow and maybe look into Hardox as I can get it water cut by K-cut. I would need to use hardox for the wedge plates anyway so might might look at using it on other parts of the robot.

[Coolspeedbot]

not really

[R9000]

That's a real shame - could you not get away with shaving little bits off to get things to fit? That's mostly what I did, though I don't have a wedgebot.

[Coolspeedbot]

What went wrong?

My cuts was crooked no matter what I used and I had issues with alining the cross sections.

[R9000]

What went wrong?

[Coolspeedbot]

Well things could have gone better, I used up most of the second sheet of HPDE and still no nearer to a finished robot.

might have to rethink this.

[Coolspeedbot]

starting to take shape now.

[Coolspeedbot]

Back from my break and nearly finished Wolf-E's main frame.

[Coolspeedbot]

Getting robot building withdrawal, haven't done any robot related activity since the 27th due to staying with my Boyfriend for a week.

But I can report that the side sections of Wolf-E's frame have been cut and drilled, just awaiting some smoothing and sanding to neaten the cuts.

[R9000]

Ahh fair enough then.

[Coolspeedbot]

To be honest, I highly doubt the extra 2.8v will make a huge difference to your motor life. I run a 5s 60C lipo with about twice the mAh, with four 18v motors and a brushless for the lifter. Since you're only running two motors and no weapon, I think that battery should be fine.

You say you're using polycarb for a template, but why not just print or draw it onto a piece of paper and (temporarily) glue it onto the HDPE? I'd think it'd be cheaper and easier to cut through. I know you're not cutting the poly itself, but I expect you'll rough the edges up if you're cutting along them.

I don't cut the HPDE with the polycarb on top I use it to draw out the shape and mark the holes for drilling, I then cut out the shape and drill the holes.

[R9000]

To be honest, I highly doubt the extra 2.8v will make a huge difference to your motor life. I run a 5s 60C lipo with about twice the mAh, with four 18v motors and a brushless for the lifter. Since you're only running two motors and no weapon, I think that battery should be fine.

You say you're using polycarb for a template, but why not just print or draw it onto a piece of paper and (temporarily) glue it onto the HDPE? I'd think it'd be cheaper and easier to cut through. I know you're not cutting the poly itself, but I expect you'll rough the edges up if you're cutting along them.

[Coolspeedbot]

Started using the second HPDE sheet (Hopefully not waste all of it this time)
I have taken a new approach to making the side sections of the frame, with hole placement and shape. Using some spare polycarb to make the template.



On another note I got two Botbits 85A V2 from Ranglebox the other week, couple of 50A maxi blade fuses, all I need is the battery, I am looking at a 4s lipo like this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...lipo-pack.html. But is it overkill for 12volt motors? I know that, a cost of a shorter life, motors can be over volted by a small amount.

Weapons:

Now there was a comment about Wolf-E getting a later upgrade, a weapon, err... might need a whole redesign just to fit one (which I'm working on) question is... spinner, lifter or axe? I will say my weapon of choice was not included (pneumatic flipper). So basically I'm left with weapons that are run by motors. But thats a future problem.

[Coolspeedbot]

You're not the only one

[R9000]

Ooh I'm getting excited - can't wait to see how this turns out.