HardWired II

[Ellis]

Well for lols, NST was thrown in with a washing machine in '12 and it left it looking pretty sore, so if you can get and work thicker stainless, it'd be a good idea. If this baseplate is structural, as in, it holds the scoop to the drives, then you'll want to make it as chunky as possible. If the bulkheads take the load (generally a stronger construction method) then the base can be thin and serve to keep electronics in and dust out.

[Flag Captured]

I've sourced some materials, going to measure those up when I can - hopefully got some stainless on the way too, so I've got a bit of choice! I think 2mm will be my absolute limit when it comes to thickness, though I think that might just about do it...

As for construction, the idea was that I'm going to have a box of 20mm HDPE that's all attached together, bolt the scoop to the front of that, then bolt the lot (probably the bottom of the scoop too) to a baseplate. Within that box I'm going to have some internal supports/separators that'll also be HDPE, and if I can't bolt the drive to the baseplate enough, I'll probably attach it to the HDPE. I've got a paint diagram somewhere that I'll probably upload in the morning...

Been out and got some screws too, mixture of M6 and M8, and between 40 and 100mm long, the m8 100mm ones are going to be for the main structure, M6 being for the baseplate and lid. Got some epoxy too to potentially glue the drives to the base or the HDPE. Might not be the best solution on its own, but any help I can get to make the things stay where they're supposed to can't be a bad thing!

[Niels - Team K.a.L.M.]

If you rotate the wheels on your motors you'll notice that the bolts holding it in place do not turn along.

Or at least the ones I have that look exactly the same don't.

On my feather I used a longer bolt and a spacer to mount the motors directly to the sidearmour. With a couple of holes in that angle iron you could than attach your baseplate to that and the sidearmour making a rigid box with your motors supported front and rear.

[maddox10]

Forget the combination glue/HDPE, that doesn't work at all.

Niels, take my word for it, replace that spacer with a rubber dampener/shockmount. To rigid ain't good for the gearbox.

[Niels - Team K.a.L.M.]

I'll look into that, but he rear of the motors are mounted slightly loose.

IMAG0154_zps24a1687f.jpg

Though a section of hdpe is covering the top of the motors as well, there is still some wiggle room to slide slightly in and out and allow the whole gearing to flex a little.

[Flag Captured]

Didn't think the glue would work, but it was worth a shot! Thanks for the help there Mario!

When you say about the screws too Niels, do you mean the one in the centre of the wheel, or screwed into the actual motor itself? Might look into getting that done, will definitely help hold it together a bit nicer!

[maddox10]

Niels refers to the M8 in the center of the wheel.

[Flag Captured]

Ah, got you. I'll give it a look tomorrow when I get to building the machine properly. Hopefully should have some decent photos tomorrow to show how it's progressing!

[Flag Captured]

Very quick update here (apologies, don't have a whole lot of time)


(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/BhwZYTSIUAA6q_v.jpg:large)

HardWired II's taking shape very nicely. Sadly it's just a boring brick, but it'll be a very fast boring brick, and a very bright one at that. Plans going forward are:

Dishwasher side baseplate to provisionally mount all the electronics and drive to.
--> use that as a template for a 2-3mm stainless steel baseplate I'm having cut, because I can't cut the sheet I had on my own

High intensity LED strips, lots of them. Blue, all around the edges, going to make this thing light up like a christmas tree if the amp draw isn't too high, make it look a bit different.

Thicker side armour - probably just adding more HDPE to the side to give a total of 40mm thick. Maybe more, depending whether it's still in weight. As it stands, it's quite a lot under if my scales are right, so I'm just going to be piling it on as much as I can.

Top plate. Not sure what yet, motors stick out about 1mm above the edges, depending how I mount them. Would like HDPE but 2mm HDPE is probably not the best idea, especially if my motors are close to the top. Considering the number of hammers and axes I've seen thus far, I probably need the same 2mm stainless steel, minimum...

After that, it's just wiring things up and replacing my chocolate block connectors with better ones so I can clip things in and out (though I don't have any spares so may just do it for the battery) and then buying a LiPo sack for charging and building a cradle to make sure I'm within the rules.

Not far to go now!

[daveimi]

God this looks a bit posh. Do you have any plans for a speedo (like which one will run those beer cans etc.)?

[mrsam]

40mm thick!? that things going to be a tank, it's looking really nice and very compact, what are the dimensions it looks really small?

[razerdave]

High intensity lights, not blindingly bright I hope? Won't be popular if we can't see the fight due to your mobile disco .

[Niels - Team K.a.L.M.]

based on the motors i guess the machine is 40cm wide, 45cm long and 8 cm high

[Mega Masher]

LOL, mobile disco
Maybe add in a speaker too

[Revsmin]

You don't need 40mm, it's unnecessary extra weight. I've got 30mm on Ricochet, nothing getting through that.