Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

[jonny]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

agreed, will save you alot of weight

[psycho_fling]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

geting rid of the rubbishy 12 sla and getting a 18v nimh pack is probably a good idea

nothing wrong with a good old SLA worked for block of wood

[Bodge Job]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

yeh, bruiser runs with a SLA, it lasts like 3-4 battles, and it can be treated really badly with no damage... and there cheap

[jonny]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

the predicament: due to the large size jarvis will most likely struggle to keep his robot in weight

the solution: reducing the robot size as much as possible and using lighter components such as using nimh instand of sla

[Anttazz]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

the predicament: due to the large size jarvis will most likely struggle to keep his robot in weight

the solution: reducing the robot size as much as possible and using lighter components such as using nimh instand of sla

Just what I was thinking, rambots will most likely not suffer from the weight restrictions as much as pneumatic bots will so can probably get away with it in them. Gotta look at each bot individually before giving advice people

[Revsmin]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

Thanks for all the input towards saving weight, but it seems that the SLA will have to go...
But I managed to have a bit of a hands-on session with Metalbeak today, very pleased with the flipper, and the rest of it too, but no wheel guards unfortunately, have to save as much weight as possible:




Also managed to get the new wheels on the motors, have been wanting to do that for ages, and it seems to drive well although it needs a couple of ball casters to make for easy steering, but it will be a squeeze as it weighs 13.3Kg at the moment...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3Xi9biseYo

Driven by Planet T5 2.4GHz Transmitter & Reciever - pretend you didn't read this Haz, I will get a Spektrum, just not yet, it's already costing far too much.

Current Specs:

10mm HDPE Base and Back:


8mm HDPE Sides and Flipper:


4mm Aluminium Struts & Stregtheners:


3mm Aluminium Flipper Scoop & Link/Dump Valve Cover:




2mm Mild Steel Plate underneath Flipper to add strength

2x 12v Drill Motors for drive; may upgrade to Gimson Motors eventually

1x Haze 12v SLA Battery, may substitute for a NiMH for weight if necessary

[jonny]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

holy moly :shock: looks awesome

[Laser]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

thats nice.
what are the dimensions, it looks massive

Edit: whats that circuit next to the relay do?

[Revsmin]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

Thanks, I thought it looked pretty neat too.

It's quite large, hence the weight problem:
Height: 16.5cm
Width: 38cm
Length: 59cm

The circuit next to the relay is a Voltage Doubler, reduces the current and ups the voltage to 24v from 12v, because the Solenoid switch needs 24v to open.

[mattsdragons]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

I though they wernt alowed in a bot at all?

[Laser]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

did you build the voltage doubler?
and are you using electronizes for the drive?

[Revsmin]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

Matt: Just did a search on the build rules, nothing in their about Voltage Doublers, looks like it's alright.
Ben: No, I got a professional engineer (my Grandad) to build it, damn thing's far to complex for me! Yep, 2x Electronize 15A for the Drive, you can't see them because they're underneath the pneumatics.

[billy breach]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

How did you attach the panel that hides the link and dump valve

[harry hills]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

well done jarvis, love ya for getting a spectrum
its going to be a pain to steer though, the wheels arent best placed.
looks awesome.

[razerdave]

Re: Metalbeak (FW) Build Diary

If I may make a suggestion Jarvis:

a: Get 24v of NiMH's for the same weight as his SLA
b: Get rid of that voltage booster, its one more thing to break
c: On a spektrum transmitter, turn the rates down so you get 18v to the drive, 24v to the solenoid. It will give your drive a bit more oomph without cooking the motors, and allows you to fire the solenoid without the need for a booster.