BOB FW Series

[sean retro]

The new vice and Dad's olds socket I saved has done the trick, with a bit of force as well.
As for the chain I got this to use
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRANDED-B...72.m2749.l2649

[Maxamuslead]

wooh, that some over kill chain there, fm2 using 06b which is used in HW drive, i mean if you already got it then ok but i would look at either t8f chain aka minimotor chain (a bigger 8mm chain 05b sporkets work) or 06b

[sean retro]

Well, there's no overkill like overkill. I was looking at 06b as well but I went with the 08b just to be sure the chain doesn't keep break, plus I never built an axe bot before so I'm still learning a bit.

[Roboteernat]

ive not had a chain break nor split in Wanna choppa, and thats had some forces on it. Although not as powerful as some axe bots, its been ok on 06b. but as you have bought it, consider the 06b if you need to save weight!

[sean retro]

Well BOB 4 slowly getting there but might have to go in weaponless to save a bit of time and out of fear of breaking my drill press. Just need to finish the rest of the body and the insides for the battery, ESC etc.

20200123_180010.jpg

[sean retro]

Well, the driving issue has decide to come back. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to fix it back then at Robodojo and with the Loctite blue I used to keep the wheel from sliding off, I had to cut behind the wheel. From the looks from one of it seems a bit worse than last time.
20200207_161130.jpg

Luckily I still got some length left on the shaft and if it happens again.

But now the next problem is this.
20200207_161136.jpg
20200207_161148.jpg

The screw hole doesn't go all the way in, now I have drill bits for metal but I don't have any tools to make a thread to put a screw in.

[team death]

A full tool kit is essential if you wish to be a amateur engineer Sean as apposed to a assembler.

You can buy a set of Taps and Dies for around £15 and that would suit well for most re threading

tasks you will encounter.

[sean retro]

I'll be getting one at Screw Fix on my way to work. Also, I better get some metal bars to practice on.

[team death]

If you have never used Taps and Dies before make sure you lubricate the metal before you

start cutting the thread-cutting oil or gell is best.

Only cut in 1/4 turns otherwise you may break the Tap or Die-they are very brittle.

Oh !-very important-turn back 1/4 turn to break off the swarf

otherwise the cutter will jam and get too tight to turn.

[sean retro]

Will WD 40 do the trick?

[Ocracoke]

I'd recommend something thicker, like the thread cutting oil that Colin mentioned. WD40 is probably going to be too light for this.

[Roboteernat]

Get yourself some CT90 available from toolstation. Its good stuff i use it on steels and aluminiums when tapping and drilling. Works well for cobolt drills and hardox too.
https://www.toolstation.com/action-c...g-fluid/p61138


Screwfix have an aerosol spray for £6.99, screwfix have the WD-40 brand of cutting fluid.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-cut...il-400ml/679gy

Ideally get some of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PACK-OF-2...0AAOSwx1ReNKuH is a 2 bottle pack, but this is the stuff. This isnt a spray, so its much more economical than spraying generally.

[sean retro]

With Robodojo coming back. I've been back working on my robots, I'm going to retire BOB 3 by putting it in full combat, give it a good beating. Right now I'm rebuilding BOB 1 as BOB 1 HD Remix, smaller, more compact, and more importantly, work.
The main problem right now is the locking bar for the lifter, it bends the bar a bit.

Just shows what a more powerful ESC can do.

[McMullet]

Hah, seems like what you have there is a steel bar bender! Look forward to seeing new BOB. Shame to think of BOB3 getting "retired" though, always thought it was a bit of a silent assassin at Robodojo, maybe didn't look as flashy as some but always put on a good show!

[team death]

Great to see a post from you Sean.
Technically the locking bar should stop the weapon from activating by accident and as
your weapon continues to operate with the bar in place it could fail a tech check.
Common sense says it is probably Okay on a slow moving lifter but to cure any doubt
you might use a stronger bar or mount it lower on the lifter blade to reduce the torque
force on the bar.