Tweet
Personally I'd run it off your 5V BEC. You'd only need something like a 100 Ohm res for that.
-
-
I thought you couldn't do that cause if the ESC messes up and the BEC stops working, the light will stop lighting. it had to be getting it's power from the battery but not through any of the electronics like ESCs and receiver.Originally posted by R9000 View PostComment
-
Yep, needs to come straight off the main battery supply after the link and not through any circuitry.
One option is to run a few LEDs in series to drop the voltage. In Coyote, I used off the shelf 12V LEDs but was running the robot on 6S/22.2V. Wired up in series, they each see 11.1V which is plenty to illuminate them. Saves faffing about with resistors and such.Comment
-
Ok, I think I understand how that works, but i'll try the resister first.Originally posted by RogueTwoRobots View PostComment
-
-
didn't nobody notice during the tech check at extreme robots?Originally posted by R9000 View PostComment
-
What about the light on a sabretooth board? it turns off when there's no power and ready to run out the box. Alternatively, you could put the LED in the removable link, I would be interesting and easy to check if it's in or not.Comment
-
There wasn't really anyone doing tech checks for the featherweights, at least not thorough ones. David looked over mine quickly, hence why I added the locking bar for the Sunday. He must not have seen where the LED was connected, after all you can't notice everything. Anyway, it was never a problem. I'll fix it for next time.Originally posted by Coolspeedbot View PostComment
-
You can't put the LED in the link itself, as the link generally only completes the circuit on the positive wire, whereas the LED needs a positive and negative connection. Unless of course you run a double pole link that breaks both positive and negative lines, but that's extremely uncommon.
As far as I know, using the LED on a controller such as a Sabretooth is also not permitted. If the Sabretooth loses power or the LED breaks in battle, there's no indication to show that it's on, but the robot could still be fully armed. That said, the same could happen with a standalone LED, but it's easier to mount them where they're clearly visible. A Sabretooth's LED may not be bright enough to be visible either, unless it's mounted close to or nearby a see-through panel, which puts it at risk of receiving battle damage. And it's much cheaper to replace an LED than a pricey speed controller.Comment
-
bit off topic but does the removable link have to on the positive side as it doesn't state in the build rules one way or the other in the build rules unless I missed a bit or is it simply preferred to be on that side.Comment
-
Either side will do - I think its just a psychological thing to put the link on the positive side
Comment
-
Its common place to place it (or any switches) in the positive side otherwise your circuitry could be positively powered and a misplaced spanner or broken chasis connecting some electronics/frame to 0v on the battery could still mean the circuit is live.Originally posted by Maxamuslead View PostComment
-
couldn't completing the circuit happen on either positive or negative ?Originally posted by Roboteernat View PostComment
-
Strange, i have always be taught to connect a the negative last on stuff e.g. jump leadsOriginally posted by overkill View PostEither side will do - I think its just a psychological thing to put the link on the positive sideComment
-
Yes, disconect negative side last allows to 'discharge'?!
but yes could happen either positive or neg but your more likely going to have a connection made after your electronics than before, meaning you could blow us stuff unintentionally.
(your electronics are still live sided with the removable link on the negative side)Comment
Comment