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  • mrsam
    replied
    After doing a bit of research and seeing Mr Mangles beater properly it seems like it would be able to grab hold of Hatchet's HDPE armour quite easily and throw it out, so Hatchet is getting some reinforcement. 3mm Aluminium angle bracing the front and side corners and the steel scoop bracing the front, then some 11mm polycarb over the HDPE wheel guards and the back panel, that gives Hatchet almost 30mm thick armour around the sides and back. Let's see the spinners have a go at that

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  • mrsam
    replied
    Hatchet definitely has a tough draw for it's first championships, a nasty spinner in every fight. Here's a quick run down

    Mr Mangle- Loki -Hatchet. Going to be an interesting fight this one as i've not really seen much of either of these bots, Mr Mangle looks vicious and i doubt the axe will be of much use against it, but if i can avoid the beater and get underneath the sides i could maybe get it in the pit. Loki i feel more confident about as it's armoured in 3mm aluminium which Hatchets axe can buckle quite easily.

    Binky - Hatchet - 44 Toon. Another interesting fight, i'm obviously worried about Binky but i feel Hatchet can outmanoeuvre it and maybe get underneath the sides, 44 Toon just keeps going but i'll just keep going at it with the axe and hope something gives.

    Drumroll 2 -Bonx - Hatchet. Drumroll is my main worry here, it's a lot faster and way more manoeuvrable than Hatchet and the axe will probably be of no use but maybe i could get underneath and push him around, Bonx again is faster and more controllable and again the axe will be of no use, but this should be a good fight.

    Binky - Loki - Hatchet. Binky and Loki AGAIN?!, much the same tactics as before here avoid the disc and try to get under the sides then try to bash the top of Loki as much as possible to try and break something.

    I'm really looking forward to the champs now it should be a great event, Dave Weston is dropping me off a scoop today and some other little bits and then Hatchet just needs a strip down to make sure everything's secure and tight, a quick test and then it's ready. See you all there!

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  • razerdave
    replied
    That's fine, would need some dimensions of course.

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  • mrsam
    replied
    Will do, although it will probably have to be some horrible paint design if that's okay? my computer is so crap right now i can't run anything

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  • razerdave
    replied
    I'm sure we can sort something out . Drop me a design and I'll see what I can do .

    Email is on my profile.

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  • mrsam
    replied
    Yeah i've got enough material for the lid and thanks Dave but unfortunately i have no way of getting down to you although i'd happily pay for postage for bits and if you could whip me up a quick scoop i'd pay for your time?

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  • razerdave
    replied
    Got enough material left for the lid ? I've got spare material (including stainless steel plate) and all those spare bits, free to use if you can spare an evening to come down?

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  • mrsam
    replied
    Okay cheers Dave, i'll have a go myself next week and post up a picture just in case i make a mistake, at this point the robot is almost finished (and so is my budget) on the to do list is make a top panel out of 10mm HDPE ( decided against polycarb in the end), remount the LED as the plastic housing cracked due to the shocks so i'll have to figure out a new mounting method, a fair few little bits have to be ordered but that will have to wait until next Friday when i get paid again but the list of parts is, cable ties, gold bullet connectors with covers as the connectors on their own can come loose and i don't want to short anything out, lots of solder, spare nuts and bolts, shaft collars to stop the axe slipping out and if i have enough time/money spare i'll try and get some form of scoop made for the front probably out of 3mm stainless as ATM the bot only weighs about 10kg.

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  • razerdave
    replied
    It's in the rules, tethers must be fitted. Some steel wire attached somewhere secure on the robot (in the base, or secured round the axe axle) and the other end attached somewhere near the head. Don't have a picture to show you ATM.

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  • mrsam
    replied
    Do tethers have to be fitted? And if so does anybody have a picture I could use as an example?

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  • Niels - Team K.a.L.M.
    replied
    Originally posted by maddox10 View Post
    Old history.
    A heavy attacking a bicycle as a kind of demo. The Bike fell, and ripped out the removable link.
    (X-bot , Nederhorst ten Berg, first Dutch "event")
    The cardboard box won by bottoming out the opponent. But I can't recall the bot nor the event.
    Either Enderbot or Pullverizer was bested by a cardboard box, at least that's what my memory drums up

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  • maddox10
    replied
    Yes, NiHM's can be charged in the robot. It's just not the best way.

    Tethers and locking mechanismes ain't the same.
    But a tether can be something simple like a piece of dacron cord or thin steel cable. The purpose is simple. If the handle breaks or if the head comes of, to stop the pieces getting away.

    The locking mechanisme is just a means to keep the weapon from activating mechanicaly in the pits or during activation.

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  • mrsam
    replied
    Just a couple of quick questions whilst i'm up and thinking 1) Can Nimhs be charged inside the robot? i can take mine out quite easily but it involves taking everything out and if it can be avoided that would be great 2) what sort of thing do people usually use as tethers/locking mechanisms for axes whilst in the pits?

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  • mrsam
    replied
    I'd definitely be up for an all axe battle and Jamie that's a shame about Onyx i was hoping to get a chance to fight it in the main competition

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  • maddox10
    replied
    Old history.
    A heavy attacking a bicycle as a kind of demo. The Bike fell, and ripped out the removable link.
    (X-bot , Nederhorst ten Berg, first Dutch "event")
    The cardboard box won by bottoming out the opponent. But I can't recall the bot nor the event.

    Leave a comment:

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