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  • #46
    i think the sabertooth has a fit/resets itself to the wrong settings if it doesn't get enough power or if something draws to much from it, but if you have a bigger battery you could strap to it to test the you should know pretty quickly

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    • #47
      Oh, and the DIP switches have a lipo cut off, but it cuts off somewhere daft, better to turn it off and just don't be daft with the Lipos treatment (ie: don't run it into the ground!).

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      • #48
        I think I may have discovered the problem, I think it's the autorecalibrate function so as you say when it loses the signal then finds it again its assumes the transmitter is at zero, I think the brushless motor shakes it around so much that the link quickly comes out or draws to much current so then when it comes back on and I have it on full forwards it thinks that's neutral. I've changes it on the dip switches and will have a play tommorow evening to check it has worked properly.

        The shaking from the drum makes it quite hard to control so may have to turn the power down a bit or it may shake itself out the arena! Also going to replace my removable link with seems to be cr@p with a small switch.
        I should have some time at the event aswell to fiddle with it as obviously won't be in the non-spinner comp in the morning.

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        • #49
          Right, slight problem, my charger is saying virtually all my batteries have low voltage so won't charge them, is there any way of getting it to work?

          I've got an IMAX B5 btw

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          • #50
            The usual way to bring back vitually dead cells is to seperate them and charge individually, or, if it has a balance lead, balance charge them. If you can't do that before the AWS, I am sure there will be someone with a spare battery you can use.

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            • #51
              Yo. What size lipo you need?

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              • #52
                Don't worry sorted now, I charged it for a minute on Nimh to JST pick up the voltage a bit and then switched to lipo and it worked fine.

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