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Only potential issue I can see with the wheels is that having a single nut inserted may cause issues with strength and reliability. I know from having taken them to bits that the robochallenge wheels use a double nut to secure it to the drill shaft.
That's probably reasonable for 100mm+ wheels whose hubs are larger but for these there's not a great deal of space for two nuts. As it is each is heated to 220°C and pressed with ~1T force into the hub.
If the application allows it the wheel can be mounted 'backwards' onto the GR01 shaft if the off-nut side is part-bored to 12mm, providing greater resistance to radial loads. This would obstruct the motor's front mounting holes however as the wheel sits much closer to the bearing face. I will aim to put this into pictures by the new year.
If the application allows it the wheel can be mounted 'backwards' onto the GR01 shaft if the off-nut side is part-bored to 12mm, providing greater resistance to radial loads. This would obstruct the motor's front mounting holes however as the wheel sits much closer to the bearing face. I will aim to put this into pictures by the new year.
I'm gonna give that a bash today/tomorrow as the wheels wont fit on either bots I have unless they're mounted backwards. Will upload photos when I manage it. Also, package received this morning Ewan, cheers.
The shopping basket side of the website has been updated for more accurate postage calculations (new prices here, UK delivery remains free for orders over £50) and to add the option of Google Checkout for those who'd prefer it to PayPal.
At the current rate stocks of the GR01 are likely to run out within two weeks but will be replenished by the middle/end of January.
Any videos of the kits in action yet Ewan? Also noted on the website it says operating voltage upto 21v.... Do they get warm at 21? Ok for running on 6s lipo?
What kind of video would you be after? Am happy to do one if it helps, haven't so far.
I wouldn't generally advise running the 14.4V on 6S, the motors will want to draw an awful lot of current and possibly overheat- but you could work around the issue by using a current limited controller and setting travel limits on your transmitter so that the maximum voltage the controller will put out is less than the battery voltage. If you possibly can heat-sinking the rear of the motor near the brushes ought to help too, I've recently had a set of rear mounts cut for this purpose but haven't yet got round to tapping & sanding them for use. Additionally removing the ring around the motor will result in a slight power drop and (unloaded) speed increase which might help depending what characteristics you're after.
Only '500' type motor cans would be a straight swap, all 24V drills I've dissected have had speed 700 or 800 sized motors with a different bolt pattern and usually 5mm rather than 3.175mm diameter shafts. You might be able to find an 18V drill with a 540 or 550 size motor however
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