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Haynes Manual Build a Robot

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Maxamuslead View Post
    MDF is not recommend at all, even for wood, good for prototyping but breaks really easily and HDPE is cheap (i get it from Direct Plastics and i think that is where most people get it from) and is the go to material for first bots
    Oh, so would HDPE cut easy with a cheapish jigsaw and a wood blade?

    Worried im rushing ahead to quick so want to keep it simple but also not doing something stupid lol

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    • #47
      HDPE can be cut with Standard wood tools, using a jigsaw run it at a slow setting and don't force it. on thicker stuff (i found with 20mm+) add a bit of water to the mix to keep it from melting and closing the cut back up.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Maxamuslead View Post
        HDPE can be cut with Standard wood tools, using a jigsaw run it at a slow setting and don't force it. on thicker stuff (i found with 20mm+) add a bit of water to the mix to keep it from melting and closing the cut back up.
        Sounds simple enough, should i start with 20mm thick all over? Or maybe thinner for the base and top?

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        • #49
          Nothing ventured, nothing gained. For a prototype robot (and as a guide for cutting in HDPE), nothing wrong with a bit of MDF or plywood.

          Sounds simple enough, should i start with 20mm thick all over? Or maybe thinner for the base and top?
          This is up to you. I've done both where the thickness is the same all over with The Honey Badger and Shu! but also where the base is thinner with Kaizen. I would only go with the thinner base/top option if weight was a concern but since it isn't here, I'd go the same thickness all around.
          Last edited by Ocracoke; 8 May 2018, 11:02.

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          • #50
            top 10mm SHOULD be fine (as there is new gen nasty axes coming) as it has been in the past but not sure now. Base Depends on how structural it is, some bots it is just there to stop debris from getting in. Side and back (back could be 12 can't remember) on Blacksmith where 15mm and the only issue i was some bolts pulling through (Binky for you) and drumroll taking a nibble. Look at my new bot Forge Master for the damage report of Blacksmith at Manchester

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            • #51
              top 10mm SHOULD be fine (as there is new gen nasty axes coming)
              I would normally agree but after Manchester, I've revised my opinion. 10mm is OK when paired with something else, such as a hardox wedge laying over the top of it. Then again, no axe got through the lid of The Honey Badger 2, it had to be ripped off. I suspect that is more down to the way the panel was anchored to the chassis though rather than the material itself.

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              • #52
                Originally posted by Ocracoke View Post
                I would normally agree but after Manchester, I've revised my opinion. 10mm is OK when paired with something else, such as a hardox wedge laying over the top of it. Then again, no axe got through the lid of The Honey Badger 2, it had to be ripped off. I suspect that is more down to the way the panel was anchored to the chassis though rather than the material itself.
                Yeah thats a good point, how is the best way to attach HDPE panels together? Would have assumed just screws? Maybe angle brackets/blocks?

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by Ocracoke View Post
                  I would normally agree but after Manchester, I've revised my opinion. 10mm is OK when paired with something else, such as a hardox wedge laying over the top of it. Then again, no axe got through the lid of The Honey Badger 2, it had to be ripped off. I suspect that is more down to the way the panel was anchored to the chassis though rather than the material itself.

                  Hence the Should XD, for armour that will see a spinner get something a bit thicker, but saying that i am currently helping AL_ find a place to make a Ti ram for pressure point so it can be armoured up. that can go through 10mm like butter

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                  • #54
                    The Honey Badger 2 used 3 blocks of wood to attach the panels to. It is positively archaic :P I would bolt straight through if I wanted to secure it properly or use threaded inserts.

                    Hence the Should XD, for armour that will see a spinner get something a bit thicker, but saying that i am currently helping AL_ find a place to make a Ti ram for pressure point so it can be armoured up. that can go through 10mm like butter
                    Ooooohhhhhh.... *goes and orders some Hardox*
                    Last edited by Ocracoke; 8 May 2018, 11:37.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by AdamST180 View Post
                      Yeah thats a good point, how is the best way to attach HDPE panels together? Would have assumed just screws? Maybe angle brackets/blocks?
                      You can screw HDPE together, however it does not hold the thread very long, the thread deteriorates each time you take it apart/put it back together and its generally not the strongest joint. Threaded inserts or barrel bolts will give you a much stronger joint and both can be both cheaply on ebay or the like. Lots of build diaries on here showing those types of fixings. Angle brackets or blocks with the HDPE bolted to or through them is another option. Easy to do and if done with some nice beefy pieces of metal can also give a good strong joint, at the expense of a bit of added weight.

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                      • #56
                        Angle brackets or blocks with the HDPE bolted to or through them is another option. Easy to do and if done with some nice beefy pieces of metal can also give a good strong joint, at the expense of a bit of added weight.
                        Verily, this is how I mounted the axe mechanism to The Honey Badger 2. Some big ol' M6 bolts through the panel though I should have used Spring Washers I think.

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                        • #57
                          I can get hold of wood easily and a guy at work can cut me the pieces I need so using the flip bot base and rear/sides going to get something working and moving and once I have all the electrics running can look at a more durable design and the HDPE pieces, ordered some samples of HDPE so can have a play with those.
                          Last edited by AdamST180; 8 May 2018, 14:15.

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                          • #58
                            The RW guide mentions a "dual RC switch" what sort of switch should i be getting for that?

                            Just need that and the ESC and then can get started

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                            • #59
                              Can you provide some context for this (perhaps a quote with this phrase in)? A dual RC switch, when I search for what that was, came back as being either as a literal switch controlled by the TX or as a ESC.

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by Ocracoke View Post
                                Can you provide some context for this (perhaps a quote with this phrase in)? A dual RC switch, when I search for what that was, came back as being either as a literal switch controlled by the TX or as a ESC.
                                Not got the book with me at work but on the layout diagram it refers to it as an "RC Relay" shows that along with the ESC and receiver

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