Haynes Manual Build a Robot

[James Williams]

Yes you will. I got the Turnigy 2s/3s charger that they recommend which works well & is pretty cheap, but doesn't come with a lead. I've used a 12v adapter lead, but from what I've read anything with the standard round head like the ones used on laptop chargers should work OK. Just make sure to check the voltage is about 12V first. There's a lot more info on the Nuts & Bots website which is really helpful.

Edit: Forgot to mention this but my bots actually came with their own lipo bags, so you won't need to go out and buy one.

[Theo]

Or you could be an animal like me, and use a NiMH. But the Shakey kits don't have much room/weight for them

[Shakey]

To add to the discussion I've recently got my mitts on this charger: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...___store=en_us

It's basically the step up but seems much better quality and has a digital readout which is pretty handy. It still needs a separate adaptor but I've always just grabbed one off ebay.

My kits come with a LiPo bag (partly for safety in shipping) so you don't need to worry about them.

[AdamST180]

Thanks for all the advice guys I think as a total rookie having an Antweight to play with sounds like a good plan, it can fight my hexbug tombstone and witch doctor for now lol

[Redirect Left]

Thanks for all the advice guys I think as a total rookie having an Antweight to play with sounds like a good plan, it can fight my hexbug tombstone and witch doctor for now lol

Antweights are a barrel of laughs. Although sticking to the 4 inch cube size maximum and 150g limit can be quite a challenge, a fun challenge though. I'm yet to make one that is actually controllable, zooms off and smashes its face into a wall immediately...

[AdamST180]

Brought 2 14.4V Cordless drlls from Aldi today, hopefully they good enough for my flip bot

[Ocracoke]

Should be plenty, The Honey Badger 2 ran on 13.2v batteries + motors to great effect. What sort of batteries are we talking about here?

[James Williams]

They should be OK. One thing you will need to note is that the drills you have might be a different shape to the ones in the manual so the holes you will have to put in the baseplate will have to be in a different position.

[AdamST180]

Oh yeah never thought of that, I was going to have the holes precut by the fabricator from the files, guess I could get them made without the drill holes and drill the holes myself

[suvv]

ok just to cover a few things in this firstly the sabertooth is not the best known thing for reliability, the feather 2 is a tank i ran one in blunt force trauma and it made it to the knockouts at tge fw chamos with no issues what so ever

if you ever want to step in the arena with any form of spinner ditch the aluminium and may i recomend hdpe insted you can buy it in sheets and cut ut with a jigsaw and there are a long list of very robust robots made out the stuff we used 20mm hdpe on eric and it withstood big nipper and Gabriel having a good go

the final best peice of advice i can give you is get it built, get to an event and speak to other builders we will all gladly give you our knowlage from our mistakes but dont be afraid to make your own

good luck dude and see you out there

btw if the builder of get shreckt is there and you wish to speak to him he really loves tinned peas they will tottaly get you on his good side

[mrsam]

btw if the builder of get shreckt is there and you wish to speak to him he really loves tinned peas they will tottaly get you on his good side

Damn it Suvv!

The rest of that advice is sound though, the Haynes robot is good for a project but really you could go a lot better with not much more effort. Build yourself a strong hdpe chassis and you’ll stand up to most of the spinners, aim for around 20mm thick.

Also don’t buy a Sabretooth, they’re not great for reliability and considering FeatherTwos aren’t much more money it’s a much better investment. You’ll find a tonne of advice all over the forum so it’s worth having a look through.

[AdamST180]

I think as per all the advice might ditch the aluminium, HDPE does sound good, much more modern lol

I'm gonna keep an eye on when the feather two comes back in stock and with that and a receiver to match my Dx6i I can at least get the motors running and then go from there.

My aim one day is to build a horizontal spinner but a long way from that lol

[AdamST180]

Been having a think about this and as its been a long time since D&T at school going to make something with MDF before go onto HDPE.

My plan is to follow the basic layout of the flip bot to create the base and sides out of MDF and get all the electrics going so it drives around and then i have something to build from.

Would a really cheap jigsaw, like this one; https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p63070 be ok to start with?

[Ocracoke]

Makes sense. With the jigsaw, you get what you pay for - I bought a £18 own brand jigsaw from B&Q last weekend and the blade doesn't quite line up with the guide on the base plate so I've had to mark where it is on the plate so I can cut relatively straight. My jigsaw has the same power output so yeah, should be OK with a wood cutting blade, which you can also use with HDPE as well.

[Maxamuslead]

Been having a think about this and as its been a long time since D&T at school going to make something with MDF before go onto HDPE.

My plan is to follow the basic layout of the flip bot to create the base and sides out of MDF and get all the electrics going so it drives around and then i have something to build from.

Would a really cheap jigsaw, like this one; https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p63070 be ok to start with?

MDF is not recommend at all, even for wood, good for prototyping but breaks really easily and HDPE is cheap (i get it from Direct Plastics and i think that is where most people get it from) and is the go to material for first bots