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  • #76
    Originally posted by Outlaw View Post
    snip
    If @Lowndsy mixer that he linked doesn't get what you want or you fancy not using a external mixer, you could get this RC kit.

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...er-mode-1.html

    which i have got. I yet to use it in combat, but it is easy to mix and with some hacking able to use 8 channels (IIRC) rather then 6.
    Last edited by Maxamuslead; 22 September 2017, 14:13. Reason: spelling

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    • #77
      And to add a third option into the mix, The Honey Badger doesn't use any mixing at all. I've got a transmitter that has has tank like controls on both sides (a bit like Panic Attack's original transmitter when you see it) though it does make going in a straight line a bit interesting if you don't push them both equally.

      My transmitter is a Carson Reflex Stick 2 but they are jolly expensive - £95 on eBay. I'd go with Maxamuslead's or lowndsy's advice on this one if I was starting over again

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      • #78
        I was originally going to use the tank mixer with a pistol grip remote to make it as hard to control and unpredictable as possible - sort of the Donald Trump approach.

        Then I got a cheap DX6i and figured it might be nice to have some sort of control...

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        • #79
          I'm pretty sure most TXs have built in tank mixing now, my transmitter was pretty cheap and was still able to do it.

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          • #80
            Well if I do go down the Nyloc nut route with the wheels, what'd be the best way of getting the nut into the HDPE? And when I measured the drill axle, I think it needs to be an M8 or M10 nut. Would this happen to be alright?

            Also, for clarification, I managed to get the controller that Maxamuslead put up. I'll just use the other controller for the weapon and give my friend something to use if we're both out there. :P

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            • #81
              for cordless drill motors? there normally 3/8 UNF threads I believe, so you have to buy special nuts for it. ebay normally has loads, id suggest using the reverse thread screw to lock it as well. not sure a nyloc would last long buy itself.
              yet to put nuts into hdpe myself, but there seems to be a common way using heat and a drill press, the forum search bar would probably find a decent post explaining it better than I could

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              • #82
                Okay... so I think I have a small solution... don't know if it'll work, but it's worth a try.

                So, the wheels my mother got me might not be as bad as I thought it would be, considering the M10 nylock nuts I have, I can try and get them into the wheel. My only question is... would Epoxy resin be a good kind of sealant to keep the bolt in place and have a decent wheel, or would it be way too brittle for the task at hand?

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                • #83
                  Or Epoxy Filler... can't remember which one haha.

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                  • #84
                    I would have thought Threadlock would be the thing to use here... Epoxy resin may very well work though.

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                    • #85
                      @Ocracoke No no, not nut to axle, but nut to the inside of the wheel. Would that work?

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                      • #86
                        Hmm... I can't see why using Expoxy resin wouldn't work but I'd also consider simply using a glue/superglue of some description in the first instance to see how well it goes for you, might be easier to get out if required.

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                        • #87
                          Okay, so the m10 nyloc's won't fit as they appear to be just a little too big for the drive shaft... thankfully I used the glue gun and not the epoxy resin right off the bat. And sadly to say, the glue won't stick, so it'll have to be epoxy.

                          So I contacted R9000, and he said just look on eBay for some 3/8 unf imperial nuts, which I'm currently doing right now.

                          The only problem is... I'm not sure if I should go with these (LINK), these (LINK), or these (LINK).

                          Help would be greatly appreciated.

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                          • #88
                            I use Kay fast and they are a very good supplier.
                            Sink plated ones will be fine for you, stainless steel ones are harder and will not rust to the rain, something your bot shouldn't have to deal with! But we are talking long term... Kay's will be fine and super fast.

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                            • #89
                              Well... f*&^... The epoxy resin apparently wasn't strong enough... either that or it wasn't applied properly... so... my only other option is to buy a set of 12.5 cm dia. wheels with a 3/8 UNF nut inside.

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                              • #90
                                show us what happened. As we could help with suggestions.

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