Project Squirrel

[Ocracoke]

I don't know of any featherweights that run castors [...]

The Honey Badger does use a castor on the front and previously did so on the rear when the wheels were located in the middle. Strictly speaking the rebuilt version doesn't need it., it has enough force to move on its HDPE base with the motors driving it along but I find it helps make it a little more controllable. I use castor balls in mine (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301529661473) rather than a wheel to help with ground clearance.

[Outlaw]

So, just got my second sheet of HDPE, and to top it all off, Nat gave me a pair of light strips that I can pretty much place where I wish onto the robot. So as soon as the weather's clear again, I can cut out some wheels for the drive, wire it all up and test it all out. Special thanks goes out to Nat for the superb delivery, and like I said, if my motor mounts don't cut the mustard, I'll definitely be contacting him to see if I can get some motor mounts from him.

[Outlaw]

Well, I posted this on my build diary, but I'm going to put this question out on here just in case, because I don't want to burn through an ESC because of a stupid mistake. So here's my diagram, so to speak.

question.png

Is this the correct wiring? Or have I got things wrong? The black box with the line through it is the fuse, just for the sake of time haha.

Also, I know I got some of the markings unfinished, just... kinda hurried with it, my apologies.

[Outlaw]

Well I guess you can ignore the last post, got it answered in the Build Diary, so there's that haha.

[Outlaw]

Insert loud sighing noises here.

So... I tried using EC3 connectors... and I keep spilling the solder out over the edge and down the sides of the little connector things, which means I can't get them into the housing... so I'm thinking of either getting some EC5 connectors from Hobbyking or take a train to Dodworth and go to Fast-Lad to get some. And get a couple more metres of 14awg wire too. Any recommendations on wires? Or am I better off getting more Turnigy 14awg wires?

Unless there's a better way of doing it.

Oh yeah, I've also learnt how to tin wires properly, so that's something I'm somewhat proud of.

[RogueTwoRobots]

Same thing happens with the EC5s depending on what gauge of wire you use. The trick is getting just enough solder in the cup to form a good bond but not spill over. I'm still trying to find that balance

What I do is take a small flat file and just file down the solder (it files away quite quickly) until the connector fits in the housing/opposite connection. It's a bit time consuming is the only thing, so can get monotonous when you're soldering several connectors.

[maddox10]

The XT range of connectors don't suffer from the solder overflow.

[Al_]

I've had the same problem with the EC5s. If there is not too much solder spilled down the side you can get them into the housing with a bit or force when they are still hot from soldering. The heat makes the plastic just pliable enough for them to go in. Careful not to burn your fingers and good luck if you ever want to get them back out.

Failing that, as Jamie says, a quick file to remove the excess will usually get them in.

[Outlaw]

Well... I think that I should honestly get started on the batteries. Only problem is I don't think I have a charging lead that can connect to EC5 (yes, turns out I have EC5s, not EC3s, I'm bloody wally...) connectors, so I think I may have to fashion one out of one of the charging leads... is this a good idea or is it a relatively bad one?

Also, is housing LiPo batteries in an old ASDA plastic food box a good thing to do cushioned in with packing foam or is it a relatively sketchy thing to do?

Any advice here'd be greatly appreciated.

PS, watching the 20 man rumble of I61, and I swear if it wasn't Robochallenge, I'd have thought someone'd bring in tables, ladders and chairs into the ring... wrestling jokes ahoooooy...

[Ocracoke]

Also, is housing LiPo batteries in an old ASDA plastic food box a good thing to do cushioned in with packing foam or is it a relatively sketchy thing to do?

I would think it was OK, it is what I've done with my LiFePO4 batteries (though I am open to being wrong here if that isn't a thing to do). I've screwed down the battery box to the chassis board and then screwed the lid to the box, lining the box with material on the base and the lid and having the same material supporting the box on the overhang from the screws.

[Outlaw]

Thanks Michael, but now I got more issues... always something with this damn robot, haha...

Got three that immediately spring into the fray and are the most important, especially as 5 minutes ago I just dry tested it on top of the drill set I've been using to drill holes into the bot haha.

1) How the hell does one make and mount wheels to drill motors? The ones I made, the counter helix screws keep unscrewing themselves and, therefore, the "wheels" keep falling off.

2) I got the damn thing to move the motors, which makes me smile... the only problem is that they spin in opposite directions. I move the stick forward, the right motor moves forward, but the left one moves backwards. How do I get them to spin the same direction?

3) Once I do that, how do I get the bloody thing to steer? Do I need to mix the signal in some way? And if so, how?

I know it's a very shoddy representation, but this is what I'm working with...

RC.png

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

[Ocracoke]

To address your questions directly:

1) I can't really answer this one, I don't use drill motors per se (I use a pair of Gimson motors with matching hubs). I might suggest either some threadlock fluid or a nyloc nut though. I can't visualise how you've got them mounted. I definitely know the Featherweight version of Luna-Tic uses drill motors in this fashion though, might be worth asking cjsowry.

2) I'd swap the + and - around on the motor going backwards. I was forever having this issue with The Honey Badger after a dry build so I use a pair of matching connectors on both wires to the motor. If I find it is going backwards, I can swap the connectors over. I have a feeling you may need to swap them at the motor terminal though as you use EC5 connectors (so de-solder and resolder them). There is also the very hacky move of cutting the wires in the middle and then soldering across (so the wire from the connector on the left would be soldered to the wire going to the motor on the right for example).

3) I don't believe it is achievable in the setup you have at the moment. A channel can only really have three states; Up/Stop/Down. As you are sharing the signal between two speed controllers, they'll always either both go forwards or backwards. You need to have the speed controllers on separate channels.

Early attempts at The Honey Badger came across this problem. I ended up using the side to side channels instead of the up/down channels (as one would stick since it was for helicopters) until I found a controller that had sprung up/down sticks on both sides (so tank controls).

I think some controllers do support channel mixing as I looked this up when designing my Beetleweight but otherwise, it would be a Sabretooth or similar controller (which I know you've already tried) that you'd need. I must confess though, channel mixing is something I am pretty new to myself so I would defer this to someone more experienced.

[Maxamuslead]

snip.

1) There is a couple of methods, a popular one to use something akin to thisUntitled.jpgjust slid in the gearbox and bolt down the holding block. simple but effective. (also add a block to hold the motor stable and it stops too much force being applied to the gearbox motor join point)

2) Check the RX/TX. swaping the cable does work but getting to know your Tx/Rx system will help as some drill gearboxes run faster in one direction so knowing to adjust trim and limits will help there.


3) Again check your Rx/Tx. If it has mixing capability then you can mix the to drive channels onto one stick so when you push forward you go forwards and etc

[Outlaw]

So I checked, and by the looks of things, the r/c doesn't have any mixing capabilities... well there goes that idea down the bleeding drain...

So, if anyone has any suggestions for a Radio controller and receiver combo within that can mix at a decent price, then please let me know, and I'd really appreciate it.

Also, tested to see if the lights work, and I think they require too much power for what I need from them, so I'm going to have to give roboteernat a nudge for them, haha.

[lowndsy]

A product like this might help?

http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/RC-Acce.../Tankmixer.htm