Luna-Tic improvments

[cjsowry]

its quite sunken into the wheel. tried rubber band, hammering, little drilling. think I might have to get a screw extractor, but will that work with a left handed thread!?

Think I've thought of a way... but too late now. kids are asleep.

[R9000]

I'm sure there's a reverse-thread screw extractor for that size. You'd end up ruining your screw though. Hopefully you manage without.

[cjsowry]

Screws are out, motors are saved. But soldered up the Anderson powerloop, tested it out and the spark buggered it. So back to the drawing board with the link. Rory are you planing to keep using the fuse as the link or opting for something better?!?!

[R9000]

Despite the arcin' and sparkin', I expect I'll stay with the fuse link until it gives me any trouble. I just find it particularly efficient because my designs tend to be quite compact, and having a two-in-one saves on space and failure points. How in the world did a spark from a 5s break your Anderson connector?

Glad to hear your motors are fine though.

[daveimi]

Sorry for the random question but wanted to ask as I'm thinking of using hdpe next. Does it hold a thread?

[Maxamuslead]

not really, it wears out quick,

[Roboteernat]

no, threads do not hold in HDPE, most people just use wood screws or machine screws to screw panels together.
althought US site: http://www.societyofrobots.com/materials_hdpe.shtml

[R9000]

Yeah, it'll hold woodscrews, but not really bolts or anything with a thinner thread.

[maddox10]

HDPE doesn't hold a thread. Better to use barrel and/or crown nuts.
Or the old and trusted angle/bolt/nut combination.

[Roboteernat]

yes, i went to add bolts are best but got distracted with actual work stuff bolts and angle are the way to go

[cjsowry]

Despite the arcin' and sparkin', I expect I'll stay with the fuse link until it gives me any trouble. I just find it particularly efficient because my designs tend to be quite compact, and having a two-in-one saves on space and failure points. How in the world did a spark from a 5s break your Anderson connector?

Glad to hear your motors are fine though.

Think it was a 30amp connector, only tested it with the three speed controllers... no motors plugged in. Massive spark and the inner bit has vanished with a nice melted plastic patch on the outside. Father-in-law thought it might be charging some capacitor in the esc's....?? I just looked blankly at him and nodded! lol. Annoying, as it was some of my best soldering work to date....... ordered a 175amp Anderson now. if its too big I can use for the heavy Luna-tic anyway.

drilled the screws out and once it bit, they came straight out. can't use them again, but I don't plan to anyway.

[R9000]

Ahh I can see why a 30-amp might have been cooked. Still it's strange, capacitors only normally release all their charge that quickly when you bridge the contacts together. Hope the new link works out.

[overkill]

Capacitor charging can cause some startling sparks but shouldn't really melt connectors. Rather than use huge Andersons (which I found to be terrible for spark suppression), have a look at the Hobbyking XT90 connectors with built-in suppression resistors - much smaller & lighter than the Andersons and they really work.

[cjsowry]

that was my back up. The xt60 was "fine" but I wanted the connecter mounted to the chassis and pulling it out I often pulled the wire and the soldering came loose. With the Andersons they have the bolt hopes, so I can attach a strap making it easier to remove!! we'll see. Need an Anderson for the heavy so its not wasted money!! thank you.

[daveimi]

OK thanks for the info. Do you need to pilot hole for wood a screws or will they go straight in like 2x2?