Luna-Tic improvments

[cjsowry]

Some of you are aware I had my first event with my first bot, did better than expected but I now have a list of improvements and upgrades I need to do. Some I can manage myself others are making my brain hurt so HELP PLEASE!!

Here goes:

1) I used 10mm thick HDPE for the chassis, it held up REALLY well. But looking to save weight without compromising the strength of the chassis. The bottom layer I had to make a massive hole in to fit the Linear Actuator, this is now going leaving me with a random hole. So Aluminum, I've heard/read people use it as their bottom layer. That sort of thickness are we looking at or am I better sticking with 10mm HDPE...?!

2) I lost drive to one side in my last fight due to the receiver plug from the esc falling out. I was talking to another lad during the event, he had the same problem. How can I solve this? I had already wrapped it in some padding, but its still not holding the plugs in securely enough!

3) Those of us using the cordless drill hack use the UNF 3/8, 3/16 hex things to attach the wheels. I want to screw in a bolt to the other side of the hex nut and secure it into the side armour (10mm HDPE) with a bearing. My imperial numbers are awful, short of buying blind and hoping I get lucky after my first 10 purchases, what size thread I'm I looking for?!?!?!?!?!

4) Removable links, been using a XT60. It works, but bloody difficult to pull out. Again spoke to a lad and he uses the XT90's, another uses the fuse as the link. Both seem better, but how do we secure it in place to the chassis and protect it from bashing and crashing. Mine was just pushed into the back and I prayed it didn't start sticking out after a few hits!!

That's it for now. May need some help with gearing but "I think" I have it sorted.....!!!!! (yes, I know I don't sound convinced!!)

Thank you all in advance!!

[typhoon_driver]

1) 4mm will be roughly the same equivalent in weight and should hold up fine in non spinner featherweights.
2) Tightly wrap it in tape. A strip of duct tape around the leads held PP3Ds in fine.
3) I'm afraid I don't understand the question
4) Make a mount that the plug either slots into or is clamped by. Being a bit stiff isn't the worst thing in the world. You'll find it will loosen up with use.

[Roboteernat]

Chris, regarding the hex nut question 3, it shoudl be a UNF 3/8 bolt to screw the otherside of the wheel, if i understand your question correctly.

[cjsowry]

Chris, regarding the hex nut question 3, it shoudl be a UNF 3/8 bolt to screw the otherside of the wheel, if i understand your question correctly.

Yh, I looked back at the nut we buy and there was two imperial measurements in the description. Thanks... lol

[cjsowry]

Gary, a friend of yours said to use hot glue around the receiver plugs.... but duck tape also might be worth a bash. If its good enough for Will and Aftershock!!

If I was battling spinners, stick with the HDPE then!?

as for the link, would a Velcro strip be enough holding it in place.??

[typhoon_driver]

No idea what aftershock used.

To be honest, 4mm ali base for the most part should be fine against the majority of spinners. Top and bottom armour typically only has to worry about axes.

Test it out and see.

[Andy]

For the base, id say if it is a structural member of the chassis stick with thickish hdpe, if it is only really holding the internals in then 5mm hdpe or 3-4mm alu would be fine

[cjsowry]

ok, sticking with the HDPE. Not much holds the two halves together as the lifter takes up all the top.

Are Anderson connectors too big for a feather. I ask because they have the screw holes and would solve a problem!?!?

[RogueTwoRobots]

If you've got space for them, they're fine. I used to use Andersons for a link and there are a fair few featherweights that still do.

[typhoon_driver]

You could use the anderson powerpoles. Smaller and you could pop a small bolt through the hole

[maddox10]

A "normal" batterydrill drive uses a 3/8 UNF nut on the shaft thread, and an M5 left bolt in the hole. The bigger batterydrills use sleightly larger threads, but those I never had to use (helped Ellis with 1 tough).

EC and XT connectors can be bolted , with a well drilled 3mm hole.

For structural HDPE, with good connecting methodes and well used bracing, 5mm could do.
Decent spinners will rip trough, but with enough airgat between armor and vurnable parts, that's no problem.

Team RCC's feathers use a T frame. A steel backbone where all the parts are mounted on, and the armor is "draped" over that. Is that Hardox or HDPE, nothing enough bolts can solve.
Why steel? Ali wasn't the best option, as Hannibalito 4 has proven, and titanium in that shape is way beyond our wallet.

If stiffness is an issue, and weight so you would have to use 4mm or thinner ali, you always can look to glassfiber filled nylon.

[cjsowry]

"well drilled" and me in the same sentence. Lol. I'll order an Anderson, need one or two for the heavy anyway. Google Garys Anderson loop thing. Failing that, try to drill a well placed hole in a XT90. Thank you all. Lots of parts ordered, finalised the new design last night. Looks much more sleeker and modern. Am worried about weight, but we'll cross that bridge when we get too it.

[cjsowry]

Sorry, powerloop! And they look spot on.

[cjsowry]

HELP...... I have two of the left handed thread screws stuck... One I managed to get the wheel off the hex nut and was then able to remove the motor. The other is not moving and the head is wearing away fast. Any suggestions? Without drilling it out, as the motor and gear box are both still good!!

[R9000]

Grab it with a big pair of grips and twist? If your screw head is really going bald, you can take a hacksaw and saw a slot in the top for a flat-bladed screwdriver. But I wouldn't use that slot to try and remove the screw now, I'd still use the grips.