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  • Re: Starting Point

    Originally posted by daliad100
    http://www.warbotsxtreme.com/motors.htm

    It says there that you multiply the resistance of the motor by the voltage you will use it at.

    Not sure if its correct but it might work.
    Just realised that I misquoted and the edit has gone. It should be Voltage over Resistance gives current.

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    • Re: Starting Point

      Originally posted by typhoon_driver
      Don't bother with a speed controller for the axe, you'll need a switch or relay as you're looking for an instant acceleration. I used these in hornet and they happily handled a magmotor stalled for a few seconds so you should be fine.

      http://www.jaycarelectronics.co.uk/prod ... BCATID=754

      You won't find anything similar cheaper. Couple it along with a battleswitch etc and you'll have you're weapon control system that should happily handle your motor when stalled.
      Cheers this sounds like a good idea but any chance of a wiring diagram or bit more explanation as im slightly confused. Also am i right in thinking with this setup the axe wouldnt soft return and also that there would be no off position for the axe it would alway be switched on in one direction?

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      • Re: Starting Point

        Originally posted by typhoon_driver
        Don't bother with a speed controller for the axe, you'll need a switch or relay as you're looking for an instant acceleration. I used these in hornet and they happily handled a magmotor stalled for a few seconds so you should be fine.

        http://www.jaycarelectronics.co.uk/prod ... BCATID=754

        You won't find anything similar cheaper. Couple it along with a battleswitch etc and you'll have you're weapon control system that should happily handle your motor when stalled.
        I agree, we've used the same things for our spinners. Be advised that they only close in 1 direction and will pass the current from another direction even when closed. So making an H-bridge out of these is not as simple as normal relays which are either open or closed from both directions.

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        • Re: Starting Point

          Is this right?



          Im not sure if theres ment to be 1 or 2 batterys but I dont think the battle switch can handle the current the motor will draw? PS sorry for doing this in paint lol

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          • Re: Starting Point

            The battle switch can be powered of the reciver afaik, which will ultimately all be powered from the main battery through a regualtor.If you want a second battery for the axe thats fine, but if at all possible id just use 1, makes charging and keeping track of whats charged a laot easier, and its cheaper.

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            • Re: Starting Point

              I thought that the battle switch acted as a relay and could only relay up to 10A where as the motor could draw way over that. So didnt see how i could get away with 1 battery. Any chance of a quick paint job wiring diagram like mine?

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              • Re: Starting Point

                Also i will need atleast two batteries, for running the motors at 14.4v and the axe at 28.8v. I know my 14.4v powers the wotty which inturn powers the reciver which inturn switchs on and off the battle switch relay but that is where i get lost.

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                • Re: Starting Point

                  i think that the battleswitch is just used as the thing that tells the relay to do what ever it cant switch something on its own i know that much

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                  • Re: Starting Point

                    The battleswitch can switch things on - that's what it does when it activates the relay - but it only handles up to 10A so for the axe motor you need it to switch on a larger relay as in your setup.

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                    • Re: Starting Point

                      Yeah so does the battle switch need its own battery as in my drawing for it to be able to turn on the other relays?

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                      • Re: Starting Point

                        the battlesswitch is jsut a relay and rc interfacae, the rc side will fraw power from the receiver and the relay can get power from the reciver if tis under 5 volts and from the main battery if tis over.

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                        • Re: Starting Point

                          Ah thanks that makes more sense, seeing as those SSR relays only need a 3V control I should just be able to use the power which it draws from the reciever to switch the other relays on and off.

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                          • Re: Starting Point

                            yup .

                            If you feel in the mood for a little nerdery, the insides of a servo and a diode will drive that ssr very nicely for free if not for a few quid.

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                            • Re: Starting Point

                              Ok bit of an update could probably do with this being moved to the build or FW section but owell

                              I now have most the parts for my axe weapon (sprocket chain, hubs, motor and victor 883) still short of an actual axe and an axail. Included a few pictures of the parts.





                              Next question is about the batteries, I bought 8 packs of these off gravity with the chargers (so 8 battery packs and 4 chargers).

                              I am going to be running two circuits in my robot one at 14.4 volts and the other at 28.8 volts. So I will be semi-permantly connected the batteries into two twos and one four (I hope that makes sense).

                              So my question is whats the best way for me to charge these, just do them using the orginal chargers as individual packs or buy a charger (if one exists) that can charge the three assembles packs as whole units?

                              Comment


                              • Re: Starting Point

                                i would charge each battery individually becuase you don't know the condition or age of every pack so best to treat each each battery as one unit

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