Madusa Build Tread

[Ocracoke]

a. I’d need a lot of solder to keep the thin wires in place in the XT60s- is this ok?

Probably, yes but leading onto my next statement...

b. Just to confirm that the thin wires won’t prohibit power being routed through to the ESC and then to the motors causing us to to be even slower?

Now what I do in The Honey Badger is have the LED effectively wired in parallel with the ESC from the battery. You are right, the thin wires wouldn't support the higher current and likely burn out, like a fuse would do.

So currently in The Honey Badger and Shu!, the wiring for this section looks like this (oversimplified but you get the idea)...

basic_diagram.png

Osu and Ikari (my antweights) use this sort of arrangement which I am more happier with (it is a little neater - photographed whilst in development):

DSCF6050.JPG

[Outlaw]

Hey man, I'd put a little more electric tape around the removable link wire, that little bit of exposed metal could cause a shock, haha. But it's looking good so far.

The way I do it is that I put the LEDs after the fuses, and (and this is a big and, because I've learnt this the hard way haha) make sure there's a resistor to the LEDs, that way you don't fry them. I remember Ocracoke linking me to some LEDs that were pre-resistor'd if you don't mind paying for them. I've yet to put them on Ratatoskr yet, but from what I can see on them, they might look right up your alley.

[Shooty]

The setup I used is pretty much identical to DotDominic's Venator build. Pic is linked below, and the entire log is great if you need some help with basic wiring.

link setup.jpg

Link to build log: http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...t-robot-please

[TechAUmNu]

XT60 for an led wow

[dotDominic]

Hahaha at the time it was the only connector I had Definitely overkill though, and you probably don't need gauge 12 wire for the LED either! I used Jamie's post in this thread as a guide for wiring - he explains the setup pretty well:

http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...ting-power-out



EDIT: Upon looking at Jamie's image again, it looks like I misunderstood the order of the battery and link leads, so I've had the Fuse on the wrong side for two years. Oops! The battery connector is the one on the bottom left side of Jamie's image, followed by the link top left, and then the fuse. Thanks for that, Nat!

[Roboteernat]

I would advise putting the fuse on the positive side of the battery lead, as this means there is no positive live on your components. very rare this would case an issue but its just common practice in electronics world.

[TechAUmNu]

It's because a lot of the time electronics connect the ground to the case of the device, or the mounting points. So the whole frame of your bot would be battery ground in that case. It doesn't really apply here as much but for example on a powersupply you could have the ground going through the casing into the board, bypassing the fuse completely. Hence putting the fuse on the 'dangerous' wire is good because it will will always only have one return path. Making the fuse the limiting factor.

[Incontango]

Thanks so much!!!!

I’ll post a picture of when it is all wired up to have a final check!! I don’t want to plug it in and then it go bang!!

[Incontango]

Hi All

Madusa is almost ready for her maiden outing at Manchester (albeit we can only attend on the Sunday).

I have tried every possible combination (well it seems like it on the Feather2 ESC) and I cant get it to turn right when I move the stick right (it turns left) and visa versa and getting very frustrated now!

I have also tried changing the feeds on the receiver as well but to no avail. Obviously, I have done something wrong but cant see what!!!

Here is a picture of our current setup of the ESC, RL, RX and Fuse

I was wondering is there any way I can programme my transmitter to basically work the oposite direction for left and right but not forwards and backwards?

I have an FSFLY transmitter, which I believe is basically the same as a Spektrum obviously not quite as good though but we could not afford one).

https://www.banggood.com/FsFly-T-six...p-1038245.html

Any help would be massively appreciated otherwise my 9 year old daughter driver will just get too damn confused!!

Cheers

Jon

[Ocracoke]

Sounds as if there is a reverse needed on one of the channels on the transmitter possibly, I need to do that on The Honey Badger and I think it might have been for this reason.

[Incontango]

Interesting - Ill have a play with the 00's of switches on the TX!!!!

[Incontango]

Hi All

Manchester was amazing and team Madusa really enjoyed it and met some great people. Madusa did really well in the end and came away structurally intact but looks like a blown ESC and a pretty poorly motor - probably from some serious airtime!!!

A massive shout out to Micheal and RazorDave who without their help Madusa would have been but a piece of shiny HDPC sat on a table with 2 sad kids sat next to it!!!!!!

Now having a post-mortem and wanted a bit of advice...

1. I think we need to move to Brushless motors for our FW. We want something pretty beefy and weight is not an issue. Has anyone got any ideas? Saying that the Gimson Brushed Motors were excellent.

2. Given that we have destroyed our Feather 2 ESC and will likely move to Brushless motors has anyone any recommendations for ESCs? The Turnigy TZ85as seem to be always out of stock now and so keen to get my hands on something else.

Thanks again!!

Jon

[Ocracoke]

Unless you are confident about making Brushless motors work, I would keep with the brushed setup as is and see if the ESC and motor can be revived so you can gain more experience at less cost for the time being. What sort of poorly are we talking about with regards to the motors?