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**shakesc** · 22 February 2018, 20:37

From the nutsandbots website

A status LED is fitted to the board near the motor wires to indicate when the board has power/signal. If the LED is off then there is no power to the board. If the LED is flashing then the board has power but no signal from the receiver. If the LED is on constantly then the board has both power and signal.

Have you bound the transmitter and receiver?

**Ocracoke** · 22 February 2018, 20:42

Does it matter where I put the wires from the ESC into the receiver (I realise that negative needs to be at the bottom though...I think) and what else could I be missing?

The plugs do need to be the right way around in the receiver and in the correct pins as each set of pins is mapped to a channel on the transmitter (so up/down on the left stick is one channel, left/right on the left stick is another channel etc etc).

**Incontango** · 22 February 2018, 20:43

Hi

The LED is flashing so it is certainly getting power.

I have bound the receiver and TX and think that worked but I could try again using the Lemon RX? If so where do the wires from the ESC go (I know the binding wire will go in the BI slot)?

Thanks

Jon

**Ocracoke** · 22 February 2018, 20:47

That will require a bit of playing/experimenting about with but in my experience, it is channels 1 and 2 mapped to the left and 3 and 4 mapped to the right. It does vary per receiver though.

**Incontango** · 23 February 2018, 12:30

Hi,

I have tried the following but no luck

1. Used my hobbyking TX and receiver. These bind fine (red light stops flashing) but the ESC continues to flash orange.

2. My hobbyking Tx and Lemon RX yet canâ€™t get them to bind.

If anyone has any ideas let me know!

Thanks

Jon

**Rapidrory** · 24 February 2018, 18:20

Hi Jon,

Sorry to hear you're having trouble.

I've never tried the FeatherTwo with the Hobbyking Tx/Rx setup you have there so it's possible it's not compatible.
The Lemon Rx should definitely work with the FeatherTwo, but won't bind to that transmitter as it is a DSM2/ DSMX receiver (depending on what type you bought), where as the Hobbyking Tx has it's own custom protocol ( "Only HK-T6A receiver is compatible with HK-T4A transmitter." ).

The options are either buy a DSM2/X compatible TX (a wise investment as most people use DSM2/X compatible radio systems in robots and it's easy to get spare RXs), or ship me the radio system and your FeatherTwos and I can see if i can resolve the compatibility issues, though this may take a while. In the event that you try it on the Lemon and it still doesn't work, ship the FeatherTwo back to me and I'll check it over.

If you get a DSMX compatible TX, I'd suggest either
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/orangerx...k-version.html
or
http://robotwars101.org/forum/viewto...devo+7e#p58972

**Incontango** · 24 February 2018, 18:38

Hi

thanks for your reply and I was about to update my thread.

I have realised my TX is crap and need to get a proper one. I actually ordered a good one a week ago and I am awaiting for it to arrive. However in my nativity and rush to get my robot moving I overlooked the compatibility issues with the cheap Hobbyking TX.

I am sure when my TX arrives all with work fine!

Thanks so so much for your kind offer of help as well!

Cheers

Jon

**Incontango** · 27 February 2018, 09:26

Hi All

I am not trying to figure out where / how to fit the fuse and lights.

I have bought a fuse, fuse holder and lights that others on the forum have recommended.

I have attached my current and very basic wiring diagram and just needed confirmation of:

1. Where I should wire my fuse and lights into the circuit
2. Also how - ie how do I wire the fuse and holder in and the lights?

Sorry for the basic questions!

Once this is done and my TX arrive I am hoping I am good to go!

Thanks

Jon

IMG_0360.jpg
IMG_0361.jpg

**Ocracoke** · 27 February 2018, 09:40

You need to put splice in the fuse and removable link into either the positive or negative side of the circuit from the battery. I use the positive side on The Honey Badger. I wired my LED for my Antweight in my simply bridging the positive and negative wires after the link. I'll see if I can dig out a picture in a bit.

DSCF6050.JPG

The order is battery, (link if separate), fuse, LED then ESC (the blu-tack was a temporary measure to prevent a short).

**Incontango** · 27 February 2018, 09:52

Thatâ€™s great thanks! A picture of how you have connected the fuse etc would be really useful.
Many thanks for your continued help!

**Ocracoke** · 27 February 2018, 09:58

Technically, LiFe batteries do not need a fuse like LiPo batteries do (although it is a mighty good idea to have one) and at the Antweight scale, I was already running out of weight allowance

If I were to fit one into that circuit, like I do with my featherweight, it would be immediately after the link and before the LED.

**Incontango** · 27 February 2018, 11:47

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/In-line-St...cAAOSwlPRTb-vP

Would this sort of thing do?

ie would I be able to pop the fuse into the holder, then xt60 connectors on both ends of the outgoing wire and connect it into my circuit that way? Also the wire on this seems to be different - could I even use it in an XT60?

thanks

jon

**Ocracoke** · 27 February 2018, 12:41

Bit confused, is that the fuse holder you are using in the photo you posted earlier on? However, yes, you are correct.

**Incontango** · 27 February 2018, 13:00

It is yes but the wire is looped - do it just cut it?

The otehr her photo seemed to have 2 ends.

this is probably me being very stupid here!

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