Dude fix your trims lol One motor starts a long way before the other when you're driving it around
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Team Shakesc : Build Diary
Collapse
X
-
I certainly wouldn't want to attempt this myself. Want I do want is a reliable supply of sensored outrunners - I'm coming away from using speed 900's due to supply issues (out of the frying pan into the fire!)
I've messaged them and will post the response
Comment
-
Interesting how one of your motors doesn't run properly - its almost the same situation as I had. Did you go through the routine of testing all the phase combinations on each motor? The custom sensor service is expensive when their standard sensored 50mm motor is 47 pounds including the motor. As they mention a large range of motor sizes, I doubt the one price includes the motor itself.
Comment
-
Cheers Chris. The acceleration footage seems to drop a load of frames - you able to see if a reupload would fix that? Perhaps to YouTube; photobucket's video support is notoriously pants.
Also, in the general drive video, it looks very much like one side starts before the other, and at random. This is typical of sensorless brushless drives with low reduction. Can you confirm if it's transmitter inputs causing how the robot is behaving or if it's the drive? I realise it's a small space but the control looks very lumpy.
Finally, in the on-the-bench testing, one motor starts way before the other. Is that trims? It's very marked!
edit: oh and in the acceleration test, it hits the door, and judging by the squeal, the motor stalls and doesn't get going again? Not promising if it can't defeat the (admittedly high) grip of the tyres on the rough surface.Last edited by Ellis; 22 December 2014, 22:17.
Comment
-
Its a bog standard Clarke Arc Welder 160 Amp. Great for 3 - 4 mm hardox and mild steel. Best accessory I bought is an auto dimming helmet. Wish I had bought one of those at the same time as the welderOriginally posted by Mega Masher View PostJust asking, in the second video I saw a blue welder. Which type or model is it?
Comment
-
Its a bog standard Clarke Arc Welder 160 Amp. Great for 3 - 4 mm hardox and mild steel. Best accessory I bought is an auto dimming helmet. Wish I had bought one of those at the same time as the welderOriginally posted by Mega Masher View PostJust asking, in the second video I saw a blue welder. Which type or model is it?
Comment
-
Its more fundamental than trimming. When running without sensor A LOT of fine control is missing. The ESC is turned down on start (to its soft start setting) and the start between sensor and none-sensor running is considerableOriginally posted by harry hills View PostDude fix your trims lol One motor starts a long way before the other when you're driving it around
Comment
-
I just noticed Alien Powers warrant statement: http://alienpowersystem.com/warranty/. They only offered to send me replacement sensors (which are a PITA to solder in!), not a repair or replacement. The sensors never arrives so I am going to give the guy another chance to honour the warranty and ship the faulty motor back to the UK.
Comment
-
Yep - been through testing the phase combinations. I really want to replace the motor that won't run sensored to get a true matched pair of motors to test withOriginally posted by overkill View PostInteresting how one of your motors doesn't run properly - its almost the same situation as I had. Did you go through the routine of testing all the phase combinations on each motor? The custom sensor service is expensive when their standard sensored 50mm motor is 47 pounds including the motor. As they mention a large range of motor sizes, I doubt the one price includes the motor itself.
Comment
-
Sure did (Esc and lead). I would of been happier swapping an ESC as at least they easier to get !Originally posted by overkill View PostLet's both get onto Bruno and see what happens about repairs or a replacement.
I guess you also swapped the ESCs between motors in case there was a sensor lead problem?
Comment

Comment