Bulldog Breed

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed

I know its all running on 2.4ghz now, but it looks old school and everyone knows that old school is awesome

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed

Fixed the tyres on Bulldog yesterday, gave everything a clean and its now all ready for Guildford! :twisted:

Hope too get at least one robot over the other side of the arena but shall wait and see

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed

Back and unloaded after what I consider a successful event

First fight my dump valve got left open slightly so it wasnt firing the rams but was a good combat test, got a great battle scar from scorpion as his axe went satraight through my Ti plate

Second fight was the most sucessful and im now confident that it drives, flips and can flip other robots as well as self-right

Sadly I only got in 2 fights with bulldog as wires on my Roboteq came loose and it was too much brain surgery too do before the last fight but was still a great day

I now know how too improve bulldog in terms of reliability as well as rationalising the wiring

Massive thanks too Mike Lambert, Jonny and the terminal forocity team for trying too get bulldog going again but thanks too you all I now know exactly what must be done

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed








Few pics of the electrics set up that I believe is giving me the issues

[jonny]

Re: Bulldog Breed

get rid of all the rubbish and just have the roboteq going into rx (using official lead) and valves controlled by a rc switch

[Anttazz]

Re: Bulldog Breed

Thats a nightmare.

Whats the purpose of all the wee beasties next to the gyro? I'd go with Jonny, strip it out and go Roboteq=>rx with a real lead and from the Roboteq straight into the motors and have a couple of battleswitches for weapon control. If you really want a gyro get it working first then plug the gyro back in.

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed

I think it needs a bit of an overhaul, may still be good tech but was built when some stuff wasnt avalible.

Have too figure out how I would wire it before I go buying things but the black thing is a little 2a relay but god knows what its for

Would like too keep the gyro but need too figure out how its all wired and works first

Think I need:

New roboteq plug
Battle switch
New Bec

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed

[blazerbotics]

Re: Bulldog Breed

Why do you need a BEC, the Roboteq has one built in? Don't bother with a gyro, you shouldn't need one.

Be careful with battleswitches, they have a habit of mis-firing.

[mattsdragons]

Re: Bulldog Breed

What would you recommend?

Im open for opinions on what people think needs doing, adding and taking out etc. Know it needs some rationalising but not quite sure what should stay and go

also, anyone got a clue too what the circuit is in the ali box? Forgot too ask and cant figure it out

[typhoon_driver]

Re: Bulldog Breed

I would start by taking out the roboteq and bench testing it on it's own like I told you to before you do anything else

[harry hills]

Re: Bulldog Breed

your problems might be caused by bad spirits, try drilling holes through the roboteq. the bigger the hole, the more demons can get out.

[Anttazz]

Re: Bulldog Breed

Is the ali box maybe some sort of voltage regulator? Not sure, just a guess going by what its connected to. You can keep the gyro, but take it out while you're trying to problem solve as it just adds another complication to everything then add it in if you really need it when its all working properly.

Test the Roboteq independantly, straight to a battery and motor like Gary says and establish that that isn't the problem, then go from there and add in components that are needed one step at a time.

[terry]

Re: Bulldog Breed


or better still...throw it away and get a watty :wink: job done.

[widow_twanky]

Re: Bulldog Breed

Matt,

The bit in the aluminium box appears to be a solid state rc relay. This is similar to the ones on the team delta web site and i bet if you take it out it says team delta on it.

http://www.teamdelta.com/products/prod2.htm

The three wires going into it on the right hand side of the photo are the rc leads. It's not unusual for these to go to a connection box where they're soldered or a pcb with some suppression capacitors on it. You don't see them so much now as the need for suppression on 2.4ghz is less.

The two outgoing red wires from this on the left are the switched circuit. These pass through the relay on the left which is a 'buffering relay' designed to take the load of the coils on the valves. Trace these back and i bet the just create a loop between your live and negative terminals (again at this age they probably take a really arduous route through various PCB's etc which are now realatively unnecessary due to the new rc gear.

The relay on the left seems to operate the valves. I suspect the blue wire coming out is a negative and the other two are switched circuits (mainly because the blue wire seems to go to both valves.

Trace all the wires out and see where they go but it actually seems fairly simple.

It's a good enough system and you don't need to replace it unless its failed.

Test it without the roboteq connected if you have a receiver battery.

Gyro I would lose and just learn how to drive it without. Never used one, never seen the point and the only one i tried to connect made the speed controllers do strange things. At least do your testing without it and then connect to see if that's the problem.

I see no bec there so you may be simply relying on the bec from the roboteq. It may be ok on 40meg but they tend not to be man enough for a 2.4ghz set and cut in and cut out so best to put one in or use a 4.8v receiver battery. (team delta stuff does not do 6v batteries very well)

Andy