Team MedBots

[Liftoff]

Re: Team MedBots

I'm doing something similar but to keep it simple I bought a cheap cylinder off ebay like this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Rod-63 ... 569wt_1142

It can be disassembled easily, will use the same endcaps and piston and manufacture a new cylinder bore and piston shaft. The endcap I will fit a 1/2'' fitting to it for max flow.

[mightymouse]

Re: Team MedBots

Max

Buy a second hand low pressure ram and stick to the pressure ratings, it will be powerful enough for a feather.

100mm bore by 80 stroke is the same as the ram on Meggamouse so if you did build one properly it would be way overpowered, and use too much gas. I cannot recommend you build your own, if you have to ask the question, you will not have the skills.

Trevor

[Max]

Re: Team MedBots

I've found it hard to find a commercial ram with big enough ports (12mm) and ideally I want a smaller second port as well, commercial rams also seem to be very big and heavy considering the shortness of the stroke.

I also feel I lack the knowledge of how to build a ram, not necessarily the skills. Anyone can build anything with a good set of instructions and the right tools.

[psycho_fling]

Re: Team MedBots

i think the right tools is the pharse to think about

[Max]

Re: Team MedBots

Could you use a small botbitz controller (10amp) to an automotive relay so the relay turns on and off rapidly so you can vary the speed of a car fan motor cheaply? Could it also be used for a heavyweight motor (with a bigger relay)

[jonny]

Re: Team MedBots

the relay would weld together

[Max]

Re: Team MedBots

What if I used a solid state relay

[Anttazz]

Re: Team MedBots

Its probably just as cheap to use a battleswitch-relay setup that is proven to work.

[Max]

Re: Team MedBots

I am trying to charge 2 12v 7.2ah sla batteries, but my charger has other ideas!
For one it says battery low voltage, which the manual says means I have input the wrong number of cells but I haven't. When I measured the voltage with a multi meter it says it's 14v so defiantly not too low.
The other says circuit break, but there defiantly isn't a break in the connectors as its the same setup for both batteries, however when I measure the voltage of that battery it says it's only 4v rather than 12v.

Adam anyone help?

[blazerbotics]

Re: Team MedBots

If a SLA is showing 4v then its knackerd. They should only show 14volts when charging, what charger are you using?

[terry]

Re: Team MedBots

Yep 4volts is bad and the charger will just cut out. Your only chance is to tell the charger its a 4cell nicd and charging just to get the volts up,then go to 5 cells then 6 etc untill the voltage is around 12v, then go back to SLA charging. Might work it has for me in the past but the ah might not be what it should be.

[Max]

Re: Team MedBots

As I am rebuilding my flipper I wondered if I should make it front hinged?
But I don't see how it would be effective as you wouldn't get much movement at the front so wouldn't send a robot very far?
What are the advantages of front hinged over rear hinged?

[PJ-27]

Re: Team MedBots

Awesome self right from a front hinged, that's reason enough surely?!

[Ellis]

Re: Team MedBots

Much easier to aim your attacks. With a rear hinged, unless you're driving forwards, the robot could go more or less anywhere. With a front hinged you can deliberately send a robot somewhere, i.e., the pit, oota, etc.

It might not be so spectacular but I have always thought they're more controlled and strategic than rears. Think of Firestorm's success, and Envy's success! And Mute's general coolness. Andx2 the smooth self-righting. :P

If you design it well getting other robots to sit high enough on the arm for them to topple shouldn't be much of a problem.

Edit: and if nothing else, you'll be praised (at least in my book) for doing something a little different with a pneumatic system.

[blazerbotics]

Re: Team MedBots

You have to have a good drive system for a front hinged, drills or similar are no good. Keep the wedge angle as low as possible.