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  • Re: Team MedBots

    Thanks Mario, that was really helpful

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    • Re: Team MedBots

      Does that hydraulic calculation hold true for C02 pneumatics?

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      • Re: Team MedBots

        Originally posted by Eventorizon
        Does that hydraulic calculation hold true for C02 pneumatics?
        Not by a longshot. Especialy not with CO2, as that has a very erratic behavior concerning liquid-gas-temperature.

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        • Re: Team MedBots

          Hi,
          Would these motors be suitable for a featherweight?
          http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-PDX26.html

          Looking at the stats they seem to be a lot more powerful than gimsons, would they be comparable to a speed 900 powered drive system?

          Although the website says they are suitable fir hobby weights which are only 6kg I think?

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          • Re: Team MedBots

            I should imagine they would be perfectly good for FW use. They're a high power 550 size (same scale as Gimsons and cheap drills) motor and gearbox. I doubt they would be on par with a s900 setup, no, but they'd get your robot shifting nicely.

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            • Re: Team MedBots

              Look at Cobalt and that is the kind of drive you would get but a bit faster as the motor they fit is a little more powerful and runs at a higher voltage.
              I will be going a similar way with conker eventually.

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              • Re: Team MedBots

                Does anyone know if heating polycarbonate in an oven to bend and shape it, weakens the strength of the polycarbonate? Also will 6mm polycarbonate be enough to stop most axes or crushers?

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                • Re: Team MedBots

                  Axes, yeah probably. Crusher, no.

                  I think Drumroll had a 6mm Polycarb lid last year and it has a big hole where Cobalt went right through. Reinforced with steel now too.

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                  • Re: Team MedBots

                    Hi,
                    I have bought a pair of Bosch 400s for a hw, I know I am suppose to modify the magnets but I can't figure out what I am supposed to do- I read that you have to glue in te magnets and rotate them so that it goes equally fast in both directions but I can't figure out how to rotate the magnets? Also should I be able to just pull out the shaft in the middle with the coil on it- I think you have to to take out the magnets?
                    Here is a picture:

                    Thanks,
                    Max

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                    • Re: Team MedBots

                      You can pull out the rotor, but it requires a lot of force.

                      To get the magnets in the neutral position, you'll have to remove magnets and clips. You'll see that the clips have a nook that fits in a slot in the can. And that that slot has 2 brothers Now the nook will be in a lot on the side. By using the one in the middle, you will have put the magnets in neutral position.

                      To upgrade the motor to RW capabilities.
                      Using a strong glue- araldite was one of the choises- to keep the magnets in place.
                      Remove the fan.
                      Weld the front plate.

                      And keep in mind, overvolting to 24V will cook the motor, unless you have a massive reduction ratio.

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                      • Re: Team MedBots

                        Thanks mario,
                        Is it really necessary to take off the fan or weld on the end cap?
                        Also I think I read you can use a piece of dowel instead of glueing in the magnets, is that correct?

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                        • Re: Team MedBots

                          Wow there is so much space in there for more copper!

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                          • Re: Team MedBots

                            Welding the cap ain't needed if you support the can itself. But I would do it whatsoever. That's because welding is plain fun for me.
                            Removing the fan ain't needed either. But it removes a point of failure.

                            Glueing the magnets. If you use the merlon trick, it's less needed, but still recommended. Just using dowels won't save the motor from magnets that shake lose the nook on the springs and start rotating in the can.


                            And yes Gary, creative minds have added copper to Bosches. King Buxton and Tornado spring to mind.

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                            • Re: Team MedBots

                              What is the extra copper for?

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                              • Re: Team MedBots

                                More turns, more resistance, less current draw but same torque and speed at same voltage. Allows more over volty goodness due to less current draw.

                                Or if you somehow couldn't over volt but your batteries and speedo can take the extra current you could use parallel strands of wire. Same number of turns, lower resistance, more current draw, more torque same speed at same voltage.

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