Tweet
Looks nice
Are the wheels going to be mounted direct on the Dewalts gearboxes or on their own axles?
Are the wheels going to be mounted direct on the Dewalts gearboxes or on their own axles?
-
-
Wheels are on their own shafts with an additional 1.25:1 reduction off of the dewalts.Originally posted by shakesc View PostComment
-
Mike, interesting. I guess with the wheels that size the extra reduction is useful. Did you need this for any shock resistance to the motors themselves?
Also I heard that the Dewalts have a winding advance so that they are 7% ? faster forwards than reverse. Just wondered if this was correct and how you then are looking to balance that?
ChrisComment
-
Offset is mainly for two things- Extra reduction, and shifting the weight balance closer to the wheel axles. As far as the timing, my intent is to get the forward direction driving straight and rely on the fact that it will only be reversing for short distances to deal with the timing issues. It may twist a bit when swinging the weapon, but it shouldn't be all that much since with the balance it should swing the body very smoothly.Originally posted by shakesc View PostComment
-
Here's the chainsaw attachment in progress:
Still have to cut the slots in the arm for the sprockets and finish welding the teeth in place. For now they're all tac'd in place as I was running low on argon for the welder. When done it'll be powered by a 775 size motor geared down to a tooth speed of approximately 20ft/s.Comment
-
That looks amazing
They may not be the most effective weapons around but gotta love the retro nature of chainsaws.Comment
-
Dude that's brutal!Comment
-
Ah, now I now how I can complete a design of mine! Watch out plastic robots!Comment
-
Chainsaws FTW!Comment
-
I'm liking the look of this chainsaw Mike
You know... you could probably get away with using military/emergency rescue chainsaw chain, as that stuff is designed to hack through metal and ice... just some food for thought from your friendly neighborhood Arboriculturalist
Comment
-
Spanky is wired up and running. Weight is just a hair over 22lbs as pictured, leaving almost 8lbs for weapon configurations. The spike wedges are 1lb 3.4oz and will be used primarily with the axe and hammer weapons. I'm intending to armor up the chainsaw and circular saw attachments as heavily as the weight budget allows me.
Here's a finished shot with the high visibility paint job-
Comment
-
How do you get such clean straight cuts on your metal?Comment
-
It's all waterjet cut.Comment
-
This is looking great! Nice to see some classic style weapons. Thing looks nasty, might actually be quite effective.
It would seem you have lots of experience with watercutting... generally, how is the quality of cut across thickish material (15mm alu, for example)? I'm a bit worried about the inaccuracy and taper of the cut edges. Do you think that's a reasonable worry?Comment
-
It certainly can be an issue. Higher end waterjets (like the one Team Whyachi has) have taper compensation as part of the design. The ones that don't will have a pretty obvious taper even on thinner material. For this bot, once everything was cut we went over the mating surfaces and flattened them with a belt sander to get things squared up.
http://bigbluesaw.com/ is another waterjet resource, they've got two options, regular and low taper, which are exactly what they sound like. http://bigbluesaw.com/index.php?opti...&thickness=0.5 shows a rough price comparison with a sample part. Best thing to do generally is to get all of your same thickness parts cut at once so you only have to deal with one loading fee. http://bigbluesaw.com/saw/faqs/parts...t-cutting.html has a good comparison of low vs. regular taper.Comment
Comment