Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

FRA UK Featherweight Championship 2014 hosted by RoboChallenge

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How many entries so far? At least 40 (80% of the planned 50), but how far off the total are we?

    Comment


    • So I was looking at last year's videos and realised I don't have a strategy for axe-bots. Does anyone have an opinion on how thick a titanium plate would be needed to withstand the nastiest axe?

      Comment


      • Binky was hit full force my Little Hitter and its 2mm Grade 2 Titanium got dented but no were near punctured. Conker 3 had 3.6mm of Grade 5 Titanium on the top. That should stop everything. The only worry is Grant's new axe machine that can in theory go through 4mm of Grade 5 but I doubt that it will actually be able to put all its power down to make that a reality.

        All that said, Carnicus has, i think, 6mm HDPE top armour and it was fine. Bent but unpunctured and good to go again.

        Comment


        • Realistically an axe robot isn't likely to do huge amounts of damage to the armour of your machine. 2mm ti would be fine to stop it getting punctured. It's the shocks that I hope will cause the damage (most of my axe heads will be blunt).

          Comment


          • Our machine took several hits from LH3 (pneumatic axe, powerful) with just 6mm HDPE top armour, and had no issues, only chiseled the plastic a little. Hence this year I am using 5mm HDPE!

            (I expect it to get quite badly damaged and am just going to have try and out-drive the opponent)

            Comment


            • Hi,

              I can say with all words what is fight against an axebot LH2 and LH3

              I use 5mm Aluminium 5083 and yes, it makes damages!! Never made "holes" on top, but left serious hits... ATM i'm in a 1-1 against LH, first time he hit the top and the ESC out of their place, entered on drum and obviously, destroyed ESC.

              Last year i fixed the problem of the ESC, had a 3min fight against LH he completly discharged the air on top of Galactus, i won for points.

              I can advise you (like grant said), if you use a minimun thick plate on top, dont worry about "internal" damages. HOLD all pieces inside and IF you can, to reduce "stress" on shafts of drivetrain use something underneath your robot lilke a "chock", so when he hit your top the "pressure" is dissipated to ground across the chock.


              Im not worried about axebots, im worried with this:

              IMG_1366.jpg

              Comment


              • Thanks guys; I have 3mm polycarb on the top of Mr Mangle but with some messing about I can make a 2mm Ti panel just for axe bots.

                Comment


                • Just make sure you declare that at the weigh in.

                  BTW: 8mm thick steel lid on Satanix, minor nick marks from LH and Tinyhurtz . I did find out either 720 or Drumroll managed to bend a corner when it hit the top horns..

                  6mm HDPE on Hell's Angel took the blows, plenty of deep cuts but none went through. HDPE is lighter and cheaper than polycarb, something to bear in mind.

                  Comment


                  • LH3's pointy Axe head penetrated about 8mm deep into Splniter's 10mm Polycarb and blew clean through the 2mm Stainless I had on BitzaWood.
                    How the armour is mounted is crucial, as is how well your robot can take the shocks.

                    Comment


                    • I'm with Dave, 8mm HDPE lid on Ricochet has a few cuts from TinyHurtz, a couple of dents from Major Damage, and surprisingly nothing from the hits from LH3 :/

                      Comment


                      • Hmm, I might be in a spot of bother with 2.5mm Stainless then, if it manages to get a good hit and damages my motors. Tempted to have a removable lid for axes, made of 20mm HDPE or something. Means I'll no longer be invertible, but against an axe I'm not entirely sure that's such a big deal. Of course, if I get put in a first round battle with an axe and a flipper, that's a whole different story...

                        Comment


                        • Tiny Hurtz didn't get thru my 1mm steel armour but rattled wires out of the speedo. You'll get dents from the big hammers but you'd be unlucky if they got thru. Gaffa tape your connections and give yourself a bit of air gap and you'll be reet

                          Comment


                          • As it turns out, all my spare titanium sheet is too thick & heavy to use - might have to go with UMHW or just double up the polycarb for axe bot matches.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by daveimi View Post
                              Tiny Hurtz didn't get thru my 1mm steel armour but rattled wires out of the speedo. You'll get dents from the big hammers but you'd be unlucky if they got thru. Gaffa tape your connections and give yourself a bit of air gap and you'll be reet
                              The air gap is the bit I'm worried about! My robot is super compact, and I'm not sure there's a lot of distance between the lid and the motors. Makes for an incredibly solid design but if an axe just manages to puncture it and get at something important, that's me done! I highly doubt that it will, but obviously I'm thinking of the absolute worst case scenarios and it gets that 'perfect' hit in!

                              Comment


                              • I was worried about axe's... then I realized I've also got a weapon

                                I'll just stick some 3mm hdpe on top of 720 to take a bit of the shock out... Looking forward to the draw now!

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X