Newbie/oldbie

[typhoon_driver]

They should comfortably handle a drill motor (you will need one for each motor). People have built FEATHERWEIGHT rammers with them.

Oh and don't exceed the rated voltage of the controller.

[J.A.G]

They should comfortably handle a drill motor (you will need one for each motor). People have built FEATHERWEIGHT rammers with them.

Oh and don't exceed the rated voltage of the controller.

Thank you

I just got hold of a cordless drill am stripping it down today

[Flag Captured]

+1 for the TZ85s. I was running a stalled fake Speed 900 on one of those and it didn't care. Takes plenty of amps, really got very little to worry about in terms of burning them out.

[typhoon_driver]

Make sure you have matching drills for either side. If you have a mismatch then chances are the motor / gearbox will be different and your robot will go in circles. Also the screw that holds the chuck in place is likely a philips head with a reverse / left handed thread. That means to undo it you rotate it clockwise. Sometimes they are held in with locktite so can be difficult to get going. Just don't strip the head or it's an absolute pain.

[J.A.G]

Well I've striped the drill to see it motor and gearbox. Ill got another drill to strip. And also I've got hold of a battery angle grinder. I've also got two 12v battery's that im going to strip also.

I got my mig welder back also

Need to get hold of an old push bike with 12 or so gears so I can strip them apart separated. To gear them up from the motor to the wheels now try to find some tuff wheels

[typhoon_driver]

The whole point of using drill motors and gearboxes is that you don't require additional gearing between the motor and wheel. You mount the wheel on the threaded shaft coming out of the gearbox. Traditionally it's done by melted a suitably threaded nut into the centre of the wheel. I forget the exact thread but it's an imperial one. You then use the reverse threaded screw in the center of the shaft to hold it in place with a large washer. When one tries to unscrew it tightens the other. Holding the wheel in place. It's things like this that you would pick up at an event in person.

[J.A.G]

But I drives slow with the gearbox

[mrsam]

The drive won't be spectacularly fast no, but it will be fast enough.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsiDj_D5nTQ

A bit of shameless advertising but that is my robot Hatchet at this years World Featherweight champs, it runs cordless drills for the drive and i think you'll find it has plenty of speed and push.

[J.A.G]

Wow you kicked there ass. And yes that is fast. It just seemed so slow on the gearbox

[typhoon_driver]

I think this thread should be moved to the featherweight section

[Garfie489]

Wow you kicked there ass. And yes that is fast. It just seemed so slow on the gearbox

You got to put wheels on it yet, the bigger the wheels the faster it moves.

https://youtu.be/bXCInfJ15D8

Like Hatchet, Defector has drill motors and due to its big wheels it is very fast on full throttle. Bigger wheels does reduce the torque however, so its a balance.

[RogueTwoRobots]

Bigger wheels also increase the stress placed on the gearbox and its associated components, so that's something to bear in mind. Depending on how big you go, you might want to consider supporting the wheel on the opposite side too.

[J.A.G]

Am thinking of using caravan jokey wheels

[mrsam]

Am thinking of using caravan jokey wheels

Really, don't do that

Way too big for drill gearboxes, they will just cry in the corner

[J.A.G]

How big are the featherweights normally are