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Questions About 200A (or more) Brushless ESCs

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  • Questions About 200A (or more) Brushless ESCs

    Anyone have any experience with the Hobbyking Turnigy Monster?
    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...___store=en_us

    I'm looking into running some of the SkyRC Toro motors at 9 or 10S, and I need an ESC that will manage (the SkyRC Beasts won't cut it). The reason I ask is because the Hobbyking page says this:

    WARNING
    This is an R/C plane/heli only ESC. Do not attempt to use it to power car, buggy, skateboard, go-kart or similar machines. The programming logic is only designed for R/C Planes and Heli and will burn if applied to other devices.

    This makes little logical sense to me. Is it that the ESC can't handle large current spikes or something, or are they just trying to cover their butts legally? If this isn't a good choice, does anyone know any other reasonably priced 9 or 10S 200A ESCs? Cheers.

  • #2
    That disclaimer is just so they don't get loads of people trying to return them after they blow them up trying to run electric bikes or skateboards. As long as you understand what you are doing its normally quite hard to break them.

    The main thing is to not have your battery wires too long or the inductance of the wire causes a voltage spike which blows up the MOSFETs on the board. So long as you run them at least 2s below what they are rated for then you will *probably* be fine.

    What are you using them to run? Weapon or drive? If you just mash the stick to full throttle instantly then it will pull a ridiculous amount of current which might cause it to explode too. So not good for a drive motor.

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    • #3
      Weapon, hopefully a bar spinner. It'll be plenty geared down and have a timing belt for some slip since the motor itself runs at 780kv.

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      • #4
        what you planning Rory...... at FW large bar spinner by chance ?

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        • #5
          That's for me to know and for you to see explode.

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          • #6
            solder some additional caps on the battery leads.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by typhoon_driver View Post
              solder some additional caps on the battery leads.
              What size caps, and close to the ESC, or closer to the battery?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by R9000 View Post
                That's for me to know and for you to see explode.
                are you planning to make a featherweight Tombstone ?

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                • #9
                  As big as you can fit. Make sure the voltage is high enough on the caps for your battery otherwise they will go pop. Close to the speed end and I forget what the variable is called but you want them to react, charge and discharge, as quick as possible.

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                  • #10
                    You want low ESR caps like these: https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/e...s=UPW1J681MHD6
                    I have a huge bag of them if you want me to send you some.

                    They need to be as close to the esc battery input as possible for them to have much effect.

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                    • #11
                      That's it! ESR. Few manufacturers seemed to put it as a figure on their spec sheets if I remember right in which case, don't bother with those caps.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TechAUmNu View Post
                        You want low ESR caps like these: https://www.digikey.co.uk/products/e...s=UPW1J681MHD6
                        I have a huge bag of them if you want me to send you some.

                        They need to be as close to the esc battery input as possible for them to have much effect.
                        Cheers, might take you up on that if I do get the ESC.

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                        • #13
                          IMG_20161129_204136.jpg

                          Its not the best picture but here on the left you can see there are 4 wires connected to the VESC. The larger 2 go to the battery, the slightly smaller 2 go to a set of 3 1800uF 63V caps. These helped smooth out the power delivery to the VESC and reduce any spike loadings on the batteries; one of the reasons why CnS accelerate so quickly is because the VESC's get the power as soon as they want it.
                          This is probably as close as you can get them to the board besides them being physically wired to the board itself, so this is what you are aiming for. I would over spec on voltage just to be on the safe side; so if you are 24V, go 36, something like that, and you want as much capacity as you can get away with; within reason.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Eventorizon View Post
                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]6784[/ATTACH]

                            Its not the best picture but here on the left you can see there are 4 wires connected to the VESC. The larger 2 go to the battery, the slightly smaller 2 go to a set of 3 1800uF 63V caps. These helped smooth out the power delivery to the VESC and reduce any spike loadings on the batteries; one of the reasons why CnS accelerate so quickly is because the VESC's get the power as soon as they want it.
                            This is probably as close as you can get them to the board besides them being physically wired to the board itself, so this is what you are aiming for. I would over spec on voltage just to be on the safe side; so if you are 24V, go 36, something like that, and you want as much capacity as you can get away with; within reason.
                            Still managed to blow up two of them even with those caps...

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                            • #15
                              caps.jpgThis is a bit overkill I think.

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