Could it be worth looking at some of the dual hardness wheels. The idea is that the core is hard to keep things in place and the outer layer is softer for a "best of both" approach. That said, I'd imagine that there could be an issue of separation? I'm far from an expert on the matter.
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New HW design - Omni Wheels and 30kW spinner
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Originally posted by typhoon_driver View PostRather than threading in the steel, why not just have a blind hole through with a nylon nut on the other side? Less faffing around on the machining side.
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Update: Oh I see what you mean now. Yeah that would probably be easier.Last edited by TechAUmNu; 4 September 2016, 19:28.
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Originally posted by Black-Tie Knife Fight View PostCould it be worth looking at some of the dual hardness wheels. The idea is that the core is hard to keep things in place and the outer layer is softer for a "best of both" approach. That said, I'd imagine that there could be an issue of separation? I'm far from an expert on the matter.
so £1.75 per wheel. We are went way over budget with the hardox which is why we switched to mild steel.
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Originally posted by typhoon_driver View PostI agree that tapping the mild steel will be easier than the hardox but easier still would be to remove the tapped hole completely and just have a blank hole with a nut and bolt. Unless there's something else I'm missing?
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Or you can just tap the lower aluminium ring to avoid having an exposed nut.
Now that the ring is mild steel, why not machine the chamfer for the skateboard wheels directly in to the ring and do away with the aluminium rings? It saves time, money and complexity, plus setting up the milling job will be almost the same.
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Originally posted by overkill View PostOr you can just tap the lower aluminium ring to avoid having an exposed nut.
Now that the ring is mild steel, why not machine the chamfer for the skateboard wheels directly in to the ring and do away with the aluminium rings? It saves time, money and complexity, plus setting up the milling job will be almost the same.
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It is a problem TBH, but remember you will never be pulling 600A all the time.
In the HW we are trying to build we have a theoretical Maximum wattage of ~15'000W and up to 400A Continuous. However we have gone for 4 XT90's, 1 per motor. The andersons were way to big for us and we are familiar with XT90's so why change. They can take the burst current of each motor and are good for the cont. rating as well.
You might need 6 or even 8 but its one of the few low profile methods available.
Edit: This was something I started to look at, designing custom links for invertable robots that could handle massive currents. I have a few ideas but testing them and making them isn't something I am able to do at the moment.Last edited by Eventorizon; 8 September 2016, 19:31.
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Typhoon 2 used a 1000A military grade connector that retails around the £1000 mark (probably more with inflation and brexit in the decade and a bit since). But failing something like that, your other options should handle more than enough current. If you are drawing 600A in any continuous fashion then I would expect either your fuses to pop on the lipo or your wiring to melt.
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Originally posted by typhoon_driver View PostTyphoon 2 used a 1000A military grade connector that retails around the £1000 mark (probably more with inflation and brexit in the decade and a bit since). But failing something like that, your other options should handle more than enough current. If you are drawing 600A in any continuous fashion then I would expect either your fuses to pop on the lipo or your wiring to melt.
We will be using 8awg for the connection between esc and the batteries.
The ratings on our batteries are rather silly. They are 5.4Ah 12S LiHV rated at 65-135C (350-730A). We have 2S2P for them so theoretically could sustain 700A continuous and 1460A burst at 52.2V. So the theoretical peak power is 76.2kW (102HP) lol.
Obviously those numbers are crazy and we will probably be closer to 300A for all motors.
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I back Alex's P90 recommendation but make sure you rate them conservatively. I just had a motor burn-out where the motor was connected with an MT60 connector; the connector looks OK but the plastic melted internally and fused the connector together - really not what you want in a power link!
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Originally posted by overkill View PostI back Alex's P90 recommendation but make sure you rate them conservatively. I just had a motor burn-out where the motor was connected with an MT60 connector; the connector looks OK but the plastic melted internally and fused the connector together - really not what you want in a power link!
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