Speed controllers to use with mobility scooter motors?

[RogueTwoRobots]

One option is to use a dedicated BEC, something like this: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...dproduct=31609

Yes it's another component so another potential failure point, but I use these in robots that don't have BEC ESCs and I like them. Leaves the ESCs free to focus on doing their job

[typhoon_driver]

The other bonus with a separate BEC is that you can use it to drive things that don't need high voltage in the robot. I may have used one in a robot recently that allowed me to run some RC relays and the power LEDs from it.

[SnowLabs]

Slightly different question - Does anyone know of any motors equivalent to the ETEK-R in the UK? I'm looking for a huge motor to power the weapon, but the ETEK-R isn't available in the UK anywhere.

[overkill]

Something from Lynch Motors? http://lynchmotors.co.uk/generators-...enerators.html

[typhoon_driver]

lynch will in all likelihood cost much more even with import fees etc. Unfortunately you don't have much choice in the UK for heavyweight spinner motors. Importing or finding one second hand are your main options.

[Anttazz]

We got a quote for a LEM-200 D127 (34HP beast) for our HW spinner and it worked out at about £1400

[cjsowry]

How's all the components you purchased?. I'm at the same point as when this thread started and been looking at the same motor, esc.

[SnowLabs]

It's all gone quite well so far We went for the 1KW 36v MY1020's, controlled with the Vypers. We're using all go kart parts geared at 8:1 for drive and it's pretty nippy! I wouldn't be surprised if we start seeing these motors getting used more, they're really good for the price.

[maddox10]

I've worked with the M1020's.

My recommendations is to glue the magnets with a decent glue, or support them with mechanical stops.

The front and back plates are el cheapo cast aluminium, and can break. Only supporting the front is asking for broken motors.

Some variants come with mounting points on the body.
The ones I have seen had the thin sheet metal brackets spotwelded to the body. Not very reassuring for RW applications.

And shockmounting is not a luxury anymore.

[cjsowry]

Glad there working! I was opting for the 48v version, but with doing plenty of reading in the forums and research, getting controllers for 48v is a pain and very expensive!! Two questions, how is shockmounting different to normal mounting? and how much was the shipping cost on your Vipers?
I'm going to have to be very nice to my father, propose an early birthday present. (I'm 32)!!! The rest is do able with overtime from work. Expensive these things. My FW is clocking in about £250/300 and still not finished..!!!!!

[maddox10]

Schockmounting. Mounting things so high G impacts get dampened.

Like a rubber cover for your smartphone.
Without, the screen shatters when dropped, with it doesn't.

[SnowLabs]

Yep, shockmounting is when you mount a component in a way that best absorbs shocks and impacts - something to sit between the component and the chassis, something like using rubber washers would help.

The Vypers certainly weren't cheap! - I might actually have one spare that I'm no longer using, would you be interested? PM me if so.

[typhoon_driver]

Haven't read much of this thread but if you are still looking at controlling scooter motors then I'd take a look at the ragebridge 2. Used one recently, cracking speedos.

[epicentre]

Sorry to hijack the thread somewhat, but is shock mounting really that essential? I don't recall seeing very many heavies with their motors shock mounted, other than those using all-in-one solutions like T64s.

[typhoon_driver]

Depends, are your pockets deep enough to replace parts on a regular basis? Even if you aren't planning on fighting spinners it's a very good idea to shock mount battery packs with foam and speed controllers with rubber or allow their mountings to flex in some way. It will mean they last a hell of a lot longer. A modern flipper will still throw your bot 5ft into the air!