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  • #16
    What to build?

    CIMs sound like a good option. But your arguments for Bosches also ring particularly true.

    I think you are right to go with the heavy, having read your reasoning above. And I certainly think that flippers need powerful drive trains. Your objective as a robot builder is to deliver your weapon to your opponent. And the better drive you have, the better you will be able to do that. Id be very much inclined to go for 36V if you can. Bosches on 36V are a fantastic drive (as Tornado demonstrates so eloquently (in as far as fighting robots can be considered eloquent ). Geared down reasonably for something like 12mph (a very good speed for most live event arenas). If you get some decent current limiting speedos, then youre laughing.

    As for orders of magnitude, well, yes conceivably, but there is absolutely no reason why (apart from money obviously) you shouldnt have a 36V LEM powered drive train- LEMs weigh as much as Bosches, and whilst you need a slightly more resilient drive train to cope with them, that is made up for by having considerably lower RPMs, so not so much reduction required.

    That brings me on to Speedos. You can build them, yes, but they will probably end up being more expensive, but certainly a fantastic learning curve, and when they do blow up, youll be able to fix them. The low power side is basically a PIC, which, being a software person ) you should have no problems with. Im not a software person, but I can cope with PICs, and that is the more fun side of the current speedos Im building. The high power side is more difficult for me- I can cope with MOSFETs, their drivers, high and low side, charge pumps and so on, but current limiting is giving me enormous headaches, to the point that Im tempted to get some logic level MOSFETs with built in current limiting. While their on resistence is fractionally higher, we can get round that problem by paralleling them. The choice between H-Bridge and Relays is largely a software one. H-Bridges are harder to program for, but are nicer in terms of control. I would go for a relay controller however, as it uses fewer MOSFETs (cheaper and considerably less bulk when you consider how banks of MOSFETs in an H-bridge need to be arranged, plus you dont need a complex system of copper buss bars), is easier to program for, you dont have to worry about high and low side driving, and a number of other reasons which are randomly entangling themselves in my head. If you wont to get something on the arena, and having fun, buy some 4qds or similar (or perhaps a roboteq- though that€™s probably a little on the expensive side) then you can build speedos on the side, and incorporate features into them as you begin to get an idea of what you want in a speedo. As I said, theyre fun, satisfying projects, but not really enormously practical for a first robot.

    Ground clearance- the likes of Cassius and firestorm produce rather elegant wood shavings as their fronts plane across the floor. Storm 2 has more ground clearance than I expected, however it still seems to get under everything because its front is so bloody hard, so delivers its KE more effectively into the opposing robot such that the opposing robot jumps up perpendicular to storms wedge, and so storm gets under it. At least that€™s what seems to be happening last time I saw it.

    No need to apologise for long ramblings, theyre well punctuated and readable, which makes a refreshing change. Although far too much time spent on MSN has done no favours for my typed English, Im still very much from the €˜Babeth€™ school of thought when it comes to forum postings, as the way you/one writes speaks volumes.

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    • #17
      What to build?

      Cayenne has 459MHz radio as does Serrano, but they use the LPRS modules which work a bit like a one-way radio modem. I dont have the equipment to do the actual RF stuff myself.

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      • #18
        What to build?

        Thank you for your feedback, everyone. Excuse the delayed reply - needed time to sit down for a good witter! Here goes, and I hope some of this is still of use to other beginners who read this thread...

        Babeth: Meant to say before, your rule 1 is very well phrased (as I would expect of you!) The complex robot designs which I have on paper are complex because of a high degree of redundancy. I include a long list of failure modes in the designs, and how they would cope with them. This thread is about avoiding having more failures than I can design around. :-)

        Thank you, everyone, for the advice on motors. I remember Rogers site of old (i.e. about a year ago - Ill get my zimmer frame out) and the Cim2s sound like a good option. Big Nipper did indeed seem to have good performance (nippy, as it were). Im trusting that Im not going to have too much trouble with replacements if I go down the Cim2 route - I remember Roger being involved in another thread last week about problems acquiring replacement magnets for Bosches, so my perceived benefit to using them may not in fact be valid. Roger - should I be doing something on your web page to get a more complete catalogue? Ive never been quite clear from your site precisely how much you sell - you seem to mention things Ive not seen listed - should I be contacting you directly for more details? I know you have better things to do than be a webmaster, so this is just an inquiry, not a criticism!

        The gearbox combination also sounds like a good thing for a novice. Strangely, many of my designs seem to have such odd drive mechanisms that the stick a wheel on an axle advice may not be as much use, long term, as youd think. But still, I could be better off starting with a managable RPM and hooking that up to something odd in a single stage, rather than trying to build the gearing into the mechanism myself. Give me a year or twos practice with a welder and I hope Ill be showing the community what I mean!

        My only concern about a single piece unit is the possibility of repair. If I snap a chain or shred a sprocket, its not so much to replace, but Im not sure what can be done to a knackered gearbox. Obviously Im planning to shock mount the drive anyway, but am I going to have to buy them in bulk for every tournament, or is there a chance of repair?

        I might take Eddys advice when it comes to speedos - buy a couple, then start building some. My biggest concerns are over paying for unwanted facilities, and the one size fits all problem. I doubt Ill ever have a use for mixing - even when I start Ill probably have a PIC doing some work to add some failsafe and add a bit of autonomous control. It seems a waste (and less reliable) to generate PWM speed control from a PIC and have to shove it into an analogue speed controller input. Anyone got a speed controller which, essentially, just does the current limiting and drives lots of FETs? What do the - apparently single channel - Curtises do?

        Also the number of motors and power required from them is likely to vary vastly between my robots: Ive expressed an interest in innovation, and that means that whatever I build, and however ineffective it will be, Im unlikely to end up with a box on 2/4 wheels very much. My most developed design uses 16 independent motors, each needing speed control... (but it would keep functioning, after a fashion, with only a couple intact - and Jim, dont worry, the bleeding-edge technology is all my own, and therefore a lot cheaper than using anyone elses!) Ive had a cunning plan for a first design which is much simpler (Roger should be proud of me for applying KISS), but the big money needs to be spent while thinking of the long term.

        On the other hand, the prices people have been stating for controllers are lower than I was led to believe a year or so back; possibly the market has moved on, or maybe I just memorized the Vantec cost (I remember the £4-600 bracket). While I still dont want to throw away more unnecessary speedos than I have to, it sounds like Im not going to blow the whole budget on something I can only use once.

        Jim - thanks for the radio components tip; actually I could use bidirectional data, so I may well be better off just buying a radio modem and being done with it. Ill have to investigate - someone gave me a pointer on the old forum, and I can dig it out.

        Mario - I realize you should know, but about the compressors: really? I was under the impression the power to weight was far inferior to a CO2 cylinder, but Ill believe you, and I guess the choice of low pressure would help. Obviously it would make my life easier, consumables-wise, in terms of testing at home, and might avoid me venting an entire tank in a closed room and knocking myself out...

        [Ironically, having bought my new camera for taking snaps at Debenham, I asked about cleaning the sensor. You cant use propellant-based air dusters, youll have to use carbon dioxide; I can give you the name of a manufacturer said the bloke in Jessops. I advised him Id probably cope. :-)]

        Also, thank you, Mario, for the offer of help - you may come to regret it as I get my plans together!

        Finally, thanks, Eddy, for the reassuring news about Storms ground clearance. Now I just have to find a way to exploit it! Also, thanks for the reassurance about my heavyweight reasoning - very welcome to hear someone tell me Im not spouting utter nonsense - and Im glad Ive fooled you into thinking Im coherent. :-)

        (The tiddlywinks crowd I hang around with are the most pedantic people I know, and include a fellow of classical linguistics. Babeth holds few fears for me when I spend my time with people who use pusillanimous and callipygous in regular conversation, and using less when you mean fewer brings months of scorn.)

        Oh, one last thing. I was looking up the FERM MIG 100 TURBO MIG WELDER on Screwfix Direct. You might also be interested in... Chainsaw. Theyve dealt with us before, havent they? (Who else would need both a welder and a chainsaw? How do you weld the tree back together again? Unless youve just lumberjacked a cellphone mast, obviously.) :-)

        Thanks again, everyone. I hope to be able to enter something within the next few paycheques!

        --
        Fluppet
        [Britney mode: Yargh - I did it again.]

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        • #19
          What to build?

          The Curtis controllers are single channel, they take a variable resistance or variable voltage input. Annnoyingly, it has 2.5V as the centre (off) position, so you have to be careful you dont switch them on with 0V applied as this is full reverse. The PICs I use have a single PWM output to generate a variable voltage, so I have four PICs running the drive motors on Cayenne, and another two running the weapons. The only speed controller Im aware of with more flexible input is the rather pricey RoboteQ which accepts RS232 input.

          If you find a radio modem which works on 459MHz or 40Mhz please let me know. If you want to use other frequencies, prepare for a bit of debating with the FRA.

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          • #20
            What to build?

            Thanks, Jim. Are you actively smoothing the PIC output for the Curtis, or is there enough capacitance in it anyway? Maybe it doesnt matter, but if its point sampling then I could see some weird beating effect could happen. Just being paranoid. And thanks for the 2.5V warning!

            Ill certainly publicise any radio modem I find, but it sounds like - if youve been looking for one and not found it - Ill be doing some soldering. Im not planning to be a pain regarding odd frequencies (if I was going to play those games Id stick an 802.11b card in the thing and make much of my life simpler) so if I can only find something inappropriate then Ill roll my own.

            Cheers for the feedback,

            --
            Fluppet
            (Woohoo - short post.)

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            • #21
              What to build?

              The mythras speedos from Kees have a bus using an rs485 driver, but not using the rs485 protocol. In stead it uses standard serial communication over the rs485 bus. It runs at 57k6 bps and is verry easy to controle. You can select an adress on the speed controler and just hook them all up to the bus. I dont know if this is what you are looking for, but I just thought id mention it.

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              • #22
                What to build?

                Hmm. Thank you, Stefan - thats certainly worth me looking at. Ill investigate.

                --
                Fluppet

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                • #23
                  What to build?

                  Id be interested in gaining more info about the mythras as everyone seems to be singing its praises. Any good links?

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                  • #24
                    What to build?

                    http://www.mythras.demon.nl/http://www.mythras.demon.nl/
                    But you wont find much information there. All I can say is that the price of a speedo is 190 euros and an interface is 60 euros. The speedos are great, the interface is suitable but not brilliant.
                    Standard theyll do 75A, but Kees also can tweak them up to 200A on request. They have 3 fets per leg. I know of someone who accedentally ran them at 72V for a short perriod, and they didnt blow up. If you want more info, you should probably mail Kees. He is quite busy though, so a response may take a while.

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