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FW electric crusher build

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  • #16
    Side guards have been cut and attached to the base again using barrel nuts.

    IMG_20181002_120338.jpg
    Last edited by Draper; 2 October 2018, 19:15.

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    • #17
      The mounts for the motor on one side and the central weapon mount have been cut (holes for the motor will be cut later). They have been secured to the base and the back plate.
      IMG_20181002_155425.jpg
      IMG_20181002_184621.jpg
      IMG_20181002_184633.jpg

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      • #18
        I made a mistake.... The weapon mount was cut to the correct length for the part forgetting that it needed to be cut longer to allow two parts to be made. This means the material I have is 50mm to short.

        More plastic has been ordered....
        IMG_20181002_184652.jpg

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        • #19
          The central weapon mounts were finished with the new plastic and work was done on the motor mounts. These were cut using a dremel with a circle cutting attachment.
          IMG_20181005_105307.jpg
          IMG_20181005_105428.jpg

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          • #20
            Then wheels where also cut from hdpe using the same dremel attachment and had bike tyre screwed into them. Since the wheel had to be a certain height and it's difficult to accurately measure the rubber tire tread I first did a teat wheel from wood.

            IMG_20181006_173556.jpg
            IMG_20181006_172800.jpg

            To attach the wheels to the motor shaft I used nut plates used on furniture legs, I had to drill out the metric thread and tap in the correct imperial thread for the drill motor shaft however.

            IMG_20181007_111401.jpg
            IMG_20181008_193839.jpg

            Finally the motors and wheels were put into the mounts and placed in the robot.

            IMG_20181008_194408.jpg

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            • #21
              The actuator has an attachment that allows it to bolt onto the claw, I am having this made for me at a local machining workshop. Before sending the drawings over I first 3D printed a prototype to check it correctly fitted the actuator shaft. It did beautifully.

              IMG_20181015_115346.jpg
              IMG_20181015_115429.jpg

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              • #22
                The actuator was next mounted into the from, this was tricky as a hole had to be accurately drilled through four different parts in order to create the anchor point. The hole was also reinforced with steel tubing.

                IMG_20181017_112903.jpg
                IMG_20181017_124652.jpg
                Attached Files

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                • #23
                  The front wedge was created, this was made from thick 20mm hdpe. It made the frame a lot more rigid.
                  IMG_20181019_162511.jpg

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                  • #24
                    The front prongs were made next, these are from 20mm hdpe with 3mm aluminium on top. A lot of trail and error was needed in making sure they stayed flush with the floor without lifting the wheels up. More material may still need to be removed when the robots drive is tested.

                    IMG_20181022_224649.jpg

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                    • #25
                      That is coming along really nicely, nice solid build!
                      Love how you used the dremel attachment to cut the wheels. What inserts are those you have used in the hubs?

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                      • #26
                        They are t nuts used in furniture, I drilled out the metric thread and cut a new imperial thread.
                        Screenshot_20181023-112854.jpg

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                        • #27
                          Ahhh interesting. I seen the ones you hammer into wood but not these

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                          • #28
                            So I have tried testing the drive of the robot, I have 4 15v drill motors powered with a 4s 4000mAh 60c lipo.

                            To at least get the robot running I tried two hobbywing 60A esc's. It didn't work... The speed controllers couldnt get the wheels moving and they seemed to really struggle. I think I may have even blown one now as well. I know the problem is not with the motors or battery as directly connecting the two causes it to jerk quickly to life.

                            I'm thinking I'm going to need something far more robust to get this thing going. I heard the tz85 controllers are good but discontinued. The replacement bb80 controllers seem good as well but are out of stock. I would need to use two feathertwo controllers but again these are out of stock.

                            Seems finding a good featherweight ESC is like gold dust

                            Anybody have any suggestions?

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                            • #29
                              There are more and more reports of people having success programming the red bricks 70 amp units, there was a post in last few days of someone linking to a working hex file on Facebook group, will see if I can locate it

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