Haynes Manual Build a Robot

[Ocracoke]

Hahahahahaa, that we are Sam

It is also worth bearing in mind the extra rules regarding LiPo batteries under section 7.8.* in the build rules though they are fairly common sense ones like batteries have to be charged in a sack, battery chargers must be capable of balance charging and such.

[AdamST180]

Thanks both

Its like a fountain of knowledge and im trying to absorb as much as i can!

I have a LiPo charge bag and a charger so thats all good, will go for an 80A fuse then

[Ocracoke]

One of the best ways to get a sense of what is used is to come to events and see the robots up close. I guess you might have done this with the VIP tickets for Extreme Robots and/or Robots Live but if you are interested, I'll be having my heavier weight class robots on display at the BotFest event I am running in September. I'd be happy to walk you through the internals of them.

[AdamST180]

One of the best ways to get a sense of what is used is to come to events and see the robots up close. I guess you might have done this with the VIP tickets for Extreme Robots and/or Robots Live but if you are interested, I'll be having my heavier weight class robots on display at the BotFest event I am running in September. I'd be happy to walk you through the internals of them.

Yeah that would be amazing, never seen any up close, been to one Extreme robots last year but booked late so missed out on VIP

Found your thread on that and sounds good

[AdamST180]

Got this fuse from RS, not 100% sure its the correct type?

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/car-fuses/7874407/

But figured could wrap the wire around the hole and then solder? For a strong connection.

[Ocracoke]

The type of fuse that can be used in the rules isn't limited, so long as it does the job of being a fuse.

With that type, I would get some ring crimp connectors, crimp the connectors on both wires (making sure to cover the exposed electrical ends in heatshrink or electrical tape), run a bolt through each ring connector to the fuse for both sides and then wrap the connections in electrical tape so nothing shorts.

[AdamST180]

The type of fuse that can be used in the rules isn't limited, so long as it does the job of being a fuse.

With that type, I would get some ring crimp connectors, crimp the connectors on both wires (making sure to cover the exposed electrical ends in heatshrink or electrical tape), run a bolt through each ring connector to the fuse for both sides and then wrap the connections in electrical tape so nothing shorts.

Oh yeah that makes sense, I feel bad asking all these questions but as they say its the only way to learn lol

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp...inals/0534216/ & https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/grub-...crews/0525789/

That sort of the right size parts?

[Redirect Left]

That's a strip fuse. you can get proper holders for them that include the bolts and a protective case.

This appears to be the right holder, with bots and snapshut protective case: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Dut...MAAOSwPIhZ6Kcd
Double check that is the right size case, as you can get midi and maxi strip fuses. I think you have the latter,.

Another alternative i have done at BW & FW sizes where the weight of bolts might hold you back, is soldered the wires onto the bare metal, and then heat shrinked the entire thing to encase it in a protective layer. This is a lot more lightweight than a proper holder. If you do that, write the rating of the fuse on the outer layer so its obvious to you and any tech checkers what the rating of the fuse is.

You can also get Midi & Maxi fuses off eBay, and in my experience cheaper than say from RS or other providers. Midi fuses are generally 20 to 80A, then heavy duty / maxi ones are 80 to over 250A (not all holders support stuff this highly rated). If you search ebay for "Midi fuse", you'll get all sorts of useful fuse related results for this hobby. You can also use car fuses ('Blade Fuse'), and relevant holders. Team Death use a mixture of both blade and midi/maxi fuses.

[AdamST180]

Got lots of stuff but making no progress lol

Realising I don’t know what I’m doing

0BFCABA2-4DEE-4FCD-9490-20285283A944.jpg

[team death]

Don't give up Adam, -simply solder or get a friend to solder -A red wire 20 cm long from the removable XT link to your fuse and at the other end of the fuse solder a 20 cm length of red wire then wrap some insulation tape round the ends-job done.
You probably won't need the TV remotes or the energy drink for this .

[McMullet]

The option I've used for strip fuses is to glue the head of bolt into the base of the chassis (or otherwise secure it in place) and then you can fix down the fuse and the power lines (with ring terminals) using nuts. I don't actually have a photo but here's a video of me plugging it in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--c7KetvZzo

All the main power connections are made using ring terminals and M5 bolts.

Good luck with the soldering (and be careful of the carpet)!

[AdamST180]

Well stage 1 of my build went badly

Ruined the EC5 connector and ordered the wrong battery connector, clearly need to neaten up my soldering again before attempt the connectors!

unnamed.jpg

[Ocracoke]

I've seen and done worse. So long as the solder isn't touching each other and is solid on the connector, I'd isolate the wires, wrap it up with electrical tape and call it there. :P

When you say wrong connector, which do you mean?

[AdamST180]

I've seen and done worse. So long as the solder isn't touching each other and is solid on the connector, I'd isolate the wires, wrap it up with electrical tape and call it there. :P

When you say wrong connector, which do you mean?

Yeah dont mind the looks but it wasnt very strong and snapped easily and then made a mess of the connector trying to do it better so ordered more lol

Turns out the one i got was XT-90 to XT-60 converter but ended up with another female end so gone for this instead https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so can cut the banana plugs off and its good to go

[McMullet]

I've had trouble melting the housings of the xt pin connectors when soldering, so the contacts go all wonky and don't fit the other connector any more... I guess that's what you've had too?

It can help to mate the connector you're working on with a spare connector, that keeps the contacts lined up and works as a bit of a heat sink...

... Though there's also the risk you ruin two connectors not one.... :'(