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Any thoughts appreciated!
Screen Shot 2016-07-07 at 04.29.11.png
Screen Shot 2016-07-07 at 04.29.11.png
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Last edited by skmattwell; 19 October 2017, 14:06. -
...Last edited by skmattwell; 19 October 2017, 14:10. -
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looks good, no need for the power on switch as Link acts fine as that, LED need to be in the power circuit and not off another device e.g. receiver and you need a Fuse. http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/docu...uild-Rules.pdfComment
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Looking at the diagram, it is basically sound except for a few things:
- As you are using LiPos, you need to have a fuse after the link rated below the burst discharge of the batteries.
- I see you've stated the LED requirement on the receiver, is that going to be a separate LED or the one that comes with the receiver?
Planning any weaponry at all for this one?Comment
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I find it useful to include connectors in the wiring diagram because then you can break it down into 3 separate areas; battery, ESC and the link.
Battery has a connector (male I think)
I wire up both ESCs to a single connector (female) with the LED across the 2 connector pins.
So now I can test the ESCs, motors, LED etc by plugging the battery connector into the ESC connector.
In the meantime you can now create the removable link / fuse circuit with 2 connectors. The negative pins are connected together via a simple wire whilst the positive line is routed through the fuse and removable link.
You then just slot this fuse circuit between the battery and ESC and you are all legal.
Regards SteveComment
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Yeah as others have said, ditch the switch and add a fuse and LED. Should be good to go. You can get away with a battery half that capacity and use the weight for armour. Also make sure to cut the power on one of the receiver cables or you'll blow it up.Comment
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No idea how i didn't blow up my receiver when i had 3 ESC plugged in when i didn't know that the two old FR15HX did have a BEC.Originally posted by daveimi View PostComment
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