Total Newbie on a budget

[Londonboii]

So like this?

lifter.png

Using simple limit switches like these and diodes like the ones you showed (depending on voltage etc)

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/low-cost-s...FYU_Gwods_8OEA

[R9000]

Yeah that's fine, assuming you're using a forward/reverse RC switch for your ON/OFF block there, rather than a speed controller. If you were using a speed controller, you wouldn't put your battery in series with the rest of the stuff, it'd be the controller instead.

[Londonboii]

I was going to use an receiver controlled on off. But if a reversible rc switch works I will do that

[R9000]

Well either way, you need the receiver. But just turning the motor on or off will only allow you to move the linac one way. Remember you need a means of causing the current to flow over the motor in the opposite direction in order to retract the thing, either by switching the polarity or with an ESC.

[Londonboii]

Apologies for the length of this and the amount of questions. I have now built a very basic robot, after lots of reading and messing about I have something that drives and has a pneumatic lifter. I was going to use a linear actuator but just couldn't get the lifter fast enough. I have learnt a lot from various threads here but some posts get a bit technical and some answers seem to contradict each other. I assume that's due to some rules changing over the years or different ways people interpret compliance.

My questions are regarding making sure my final design meets the safety requirements of the rules, now I know I can get it working.

Electrical
1 - I have a removable link (a fuse in a holder) how do people make it accessible from the outside? Just a flap on the shell? How is this kept closed so it doesn't come off in battle but is still easily removed when needed?

2 - how do you test that the receiver failsafe works? There's a light on my receiver. Turn on the transmitter and it's on. Turn off the transmitter and it's off. That shows the failsafe is working, right?

Pneumatic
The rules aren't very clear on what's needed here. To me at least.

3 - I'm using a paintball Co2 tank so assume the burst disk on it is all that's needed between it and the regulator to comply with the pressure release rules?
4 - the regulator drop's the pressure so that it's below the 10 bar limit of my ram. So in this section I need a 10 bar PRV that'll open and release the pressure if it goes above 10 bar for some reason? Can this be anywhere between the regulator and the ram?
5 - I believe I need to add a QEV to dump all the gas in an emergency. Is that correct? This also needs to be accessible from the outside? How do people achieve this? (similar to Q1 regarding the access flap/panel)
6 - I need an on/off so that there's no pressure in the system until it's in the arena about to battle? Can this just be a simple on/off valve after the regulator accessible from the outside as the QEV/removable link?

[Garfie489]

1) Open hole, a flap with a wing nut holding it closed, a flap on a slider. Many ways.
2) Drive full speed forwards and turn the transmitter off. Does it reset to 0?, does the weapons produce the same result?
3) Youll need a seperate PRV, rated to 1000 psi for full pressure or below your lowest components.
4) Yes, provided theres no one way section between components.
5) Same as 1, just get a ball valve of some sort or similar.
6) Unless an EO says - No, the On/Off needs to be directly after the bottle via either the paintball pin valve or via the bottle itself.

[Londonboii]

Thanks.

2 - I will check, but I'm pretty sure when I turn it off rolling it just rolls to a stop, there's no power to the motors. The weapon is activated fast, I couldn't check it in the same way but I suppose it's not needed if the other test shows the failsafe is OK? As both systems get their signal from the same receiver?
3 - so between the tank and regulator, I need a prv rated to 1000psi?
4 - I am using a 5/2 solenoid. So 1 prv between the regulator and solenoid would cover the lower pressure section I think?

[Garfie489]

Youll need to check drive and weapons independently.

During Tech Check it will be done without gas, but your valves will be tested via audio. You can however at the start plug a motor into each channel independently and test all channels using a single motor.

If the regulator fits directly onto the CO2 supply, then no. However youll need to double check with an EO depending on how your system works.

Yes, only advice ill give is to get the self reseting type.