Rigid Robotics Build Diary - Flat Damon

[lowndsy]

Right. This weekend I decided to burn holes in the kitchen table, my hands and the carpet while swearing a lot. In between trips to the tub of Savlon I managed to solder XT60 connectors to everything and get the motors running with the radio gear.

Tank Steering is working, but for some reason the motors won't go in reverse yet. I haven't fully charged my lipos yet so I only had each motor running separately for a short while - I think once both are plugged in the signal mixer will figure it out.

So technically I just need to screw everything together, add a removable link and think about graphics - loads of time before the Manchester event.

[cjsowry]

Have you got the esc's in the right mode. I had the same problem with no reverse. Can't find the instructions but it's the last one you need. "crawler" I think. Soldering these xt60 are a right pain. There good and stay connected to each other, but my soldering isn't the best and the wires keep falling out. Will have to try another type with my next build.

[lowndsy]

Well at least I know it can work! It seemed happier as I plugged more into it so we'll see what happens when it's all running in one go.

My soldering is a bit rusty too, haven't done it since school but it got there in the end. you can definitely tell which one I did first and which one I did last. top tip, don't pick your nose when you have a solering iron in your hand.
The connectors on the back of the motors need doing again so I'm going to fit some spade clips to the wire and then solder them in place.

Silly question, how did you mount the wheels to the drill motor? I just ordered some new wheels with 10mm hubs so I'll probably need to drill it out?

[R9000]

Ideally you need a nut with a 3/8 UNF thread to fit on the drill. Most people seem to heat up the nut and press it into their wheel with a drill press, though I've seen other methods, such as making an aluminium peg and ramming the wheel on, then screwing that onto the motor. Just make sure you get them as straight as possible. Ellis Ware (Ranglebox, Pulsar, etc) has a video on the melty-melty method, though he's using nylon wheels (I think). I'm not sure what you're using.

[cjsowry]

You didn't use.the iron itself to pick your noise did you?!?!?! I've burnt myself with an iron too, I borrowed one from my step-dad and it didn't work. Months later plugged it in not expecting it to work again and stupidly picked up the coil stand that was rather hot. "Insert swear words"
As for wheels, I will admit I just copied Ellis for my first build. The nuts not straight but it works and I'm happy with the result.

[maddox10]

I can't comment on the burn yourself and surroundings. I had that stage a few years ago.
Practice and good tools are the things you need. Tools is just money, experience is easier gained with good tools.

On wheels. I make an adaptor that accepts a hex 17 RC wheel on the standard 12mm diameter, 3/8 unf/M5left shaft.
RC wheels are lighter and more grippy (if not ment for driftcars) than any other commercial wheel I used in the past.

[lowndsy]

You didn't use.the iron itself to pick your noise did you?!?!?!

Came close! I'm the sort of chap who looks at the time with a cup of coffee in his hand - it's a wonder I'm still alive!

The wheels I have on the way are some sort of hard plastic - I think Polypropelene. I had 100mm ones, but I need to step up to at least 125mm to clear the armour top and bottom so I have some blue rubber ones in the post. I tthink they are 10mm shaft, will have to check.

[lowndsy]

Right, back on the wagon after being super busy at work. I stripped down FD tonight to replace the drill motors with new Gimsons.

WP_20170518_21_50_24_Pro.jpg

The crimped wires are just temporary until I shorten them, but otherwise everything is running again and ready to be screwed back together. Lots of screws.

The aim now is to be properly bullet proof before I move house in 13 days time.

[daveimi]

Is your chassis 3d printed.

[lowndsy]

Nope, it's a pair of caravan ramps. Good for 8 tons of pressure, and even after I hacked it up and bolted the armour on I drove my Renault Megane over it with no problems.

Impact damage and point pressure from axes, spinners and the like will be different - needs protecting with HDPE all over, but it was built to just be a big solid lump.

[R9000]

It does look really solid, it'll be interesting to see it after a couple of battles.

[Tim The Plumber]

In that case, I take back my unsaid idea that your chassis looked weak and silly.

If you have used such a practicle and obvioulsy strong basis for your bot rather than mess around with unnecessary tech you should be difficult to deal with.

Are the wheels a bit far back and do they have enough of the weight of the thing on them? Can you put any sort of balast/armour on the back of it to keep them down a bit?

[lowndsy]

Thanks, I think! It is just plain heavy all over, but there is a pretty sizable armour plate to bolt onto the back so weight on the axle shouldn't be a problem.

I am considering trimming a section out of the front where Chaos 2 style flipper arms might usually catch it so that will save some weight at the nose end too.

[daveimi]

God that's a good idea

[Andy]

Neat idea, will be interesting to see how they perform