Motors And Victors

[ewan]

Motors And Victors

Your comparisons are at the least, dated, ni-mh is almost at a par with ni-cad weight-to-current ratio. Your comparisons also dont allow for specific run time, you should allow for a 6 minute run time in the least (also 6mins is a 10th of an hour so it makes calculations easier )

GP ni-mh cells at 3300mah (and other international other brand cells) can Peak 100amps, and not your suggested 60

Also, you need to take into account the actual energy capacity, and not just the short-period output ability. An EV may take short current spikes, but good quality ni-mh cells can cope with that.

(the debate continues )

[stu]

Motors And Victors

GET A LIFE!

Mr Stu

[typhoon_driver]

Motors And Victors

I can confirm from first hand experience that ni-mh cells or at least specific brand new types can and will deliver very high currents.

The cells we use in Typhoon 2 are ni-mh and they can almost certainly give us the required current! From our on board data logger we worked out that at one point in the series 7 final they gave us 400 to 500amps and the voltage dropped to 12v.

If you choose the right ni-mh cells they will out perform ni-cad.

[jhq]

Motors And Victors

i was thinking normal battlepacks...but where are they?! http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_batteries.htmlhttp://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_batteries.html
no normal battlepacks?
then i have to go with intercooled packs...

these batteries wont be under heavy conditions, it is finnish robotics
the most powerful thing they have to encounter is six drills, others go with two or four drills

hey, how big wire you recommend for those batts and general wiring for that robot?

[team_ireland]

Motors And Victors

Use the Design Your Battery Pack feature and select the type of cells you wish to use (2.4amp ni-cds or 3amp ni-cds) and select the formation and voltage. You can even select the size of wire and connectors used.

However be warned these packs are now welded construction and not soldered like in the past. It would be best to go for the intercooled ones as they are soldered and therefore can supply more amps.

As for wire size. In my featherweight I use 2.5square flexy flex throughout. Its not as good as the wet noodle wire available but is cheep and I can get it in my main street. For your robot I would recomend 4-6square for safety. Now the americans dont use square but here is a rough guide:
2.5sq: 14.
4sq: 12.
6sq: 10.

Robot combat sell Deans Wet Noodle 12 Gauge Wire. This in my opinion would be best suited to your application as it can take the current and it incredibly flexable. It really has to be seen to be believed. Ed had some at gghw and you could tye it in nots and it would stay there. Its amaizing.

As for connectors you will probably need to either use some of your own or else use the 75amp powerpoles.

I hope this helps.
Regards
Ian

[fwsorg]

Motors And Victors

Its just flexible silicon wire. No need to order the stuff from the states, its available everywhere. Even my local model shop sells it.

[jhq]

Motors And Victors

ill think i go with 3600mAh C-cell intercooled Ni-CD battlepacks,
wiring from battery to main switch will be 8AWG and other wiring 10AWG
(i like big wire )

[knightrous]

Motors And Victors

If you get stuck, you can always just run good ole SLAs I would like some NiCds for my feather, but they cannot supply 400amps start up or 200amps continous like my 7AMP SLA, so I havent bought any

[jhq]

Motors And Victors

would normal 3600mAh battlepacks be ok, or would they get hot?
i just fount battlepack kits... those are really much cheaper than ready packs