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Re: Moving to Lithium
Oh yeah! I can see just about buried it is now, impressive!
Oh yeah! I can see just about buried it is now, impressive!
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Re: Moving to Lithium
Would a battery like this:
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/3000mah-lipo- ... 06608.html
Be able to run two Argos drill motors and a speed 900 or simulaly powered axe weapon? And would it need charging in-between fights?Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
Going by the spec's it probably would yeah, but I notice that people in this thread often say that Li-Po's vary vastly by brand and with that being GiantCod the brand may be of the cheaper variety.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
Max, check out the 'Gens Ace' range of li-po batteries available on GiantCod. They're still pretty cheap but testing and reports from other users seem to say that their performance is similar to some of the higher-end brands of li-po batteries available. I've got myself a pack for using in Drumroll so will see how they go.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
So this one would be better
http://www.giantcod.co.uk/gens-3000-lip ... 06609.html,
Is a 25c discharge rate going to be enough to power the speed 900 for the axe and the drills?Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
If it was one of our machines.
Scorpion XXL speedo. Means 45 amps per channel current limit =90A, doesn't matter for the voltage.
Speed 900@12V, officialy 54A stall.
144A together.
3000mAh*25= 75A
I guess that's simple enough.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
But you very in likely to stall them together, drill motors, generally won't go above 10 amps, so I would have thought that you would be ok... As long as the average draw of the drills is below 10 amps? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?!?Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
We're talking Murphy's law here.
Normaly, a reasonable 2WD feather drive won't ask more than 500mAh from a 4S A123.
But I messured Lesha Drillmotors drawing 100A+ for a few seconds before becoming magic smoke.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
So would I be advised to put a 75A fuse before the batteryComment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
It is an option. Will keep your batteries in 1 piece, untill the opponent runs them trough, after the fuze blows.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
I believe it's a requirement to have an in-line fuse rated below potential when using Li-Po's. Plus it'll save your investment. I'd advise having them before your motors too to save your ESC's (obviously adjust the rating)
All sorts of nasty-ness can happen to the insides of your robot when fighting and you'll want to protect the expensive bits!Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
The requirement is to have a low voltage cut-off. A fuze doesn't react on voltage. Only amperes.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
The point in the fuse is to stop your pack being over disscharged by pulling to many amps....An inline fuse will stop this.
If your pack can supply 100a contin and 200a burst.... go for a 100a or less fuse.
The fuse is to protect your lipo NOT your motors.
also - why buy cheapo lipos when you can get a 40% sponsorship deal from flightpower that all FRA members are entitled to thanks to robochallenge.
Also... flightpower offer great customer service.. i recently had a pack go down on a dodgy connection... i sent an e-mail to flightpower, had a response within an hour... and a new lipo on its way to me free of charge...they even told me how to fix my old one to keep as a spare.Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
So I think this battery looks perfect and with the extra 40% discount that is an incredibly good price!
http://global.flightpower.co.uk/index.p ... cts_id=212
What do you think?Comment
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Re: Moving to Lithium
What discount do we get?Comment
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