Andron4000 HW crusher build

[adamclark]

Seems like you could lose a lot of weight from the drive train, unless you want to be a pusher as well. With so many spinners it might be better to go for armour so as to be able to be upright and moving to deliver the weapon?

[Andron4000]

The spike is just a place holder part at the moment to gauge the size/ weight. I think it will have to be more tooth like to follow the arc of the arm.
The top arm is waterjet 15mm aluminium, and we've managed to cut quite a bit of the weight out by adding the spine strip and gussets
arm assy.JPG


The drive chain is pretty simple now. We had to get rid of the chains and sprockets for weight, and now it consists of the wheel, an adaptor plate to the t64 motor gearbox, and a mount bracket.
drive assy.JPG

The weigh is down to 90, with about 5kg to add in the front right armour, and about 10kg in the plastic armour on the rear

The central weldment that hold the arm and band brake drum will act as the baseplate. I think it will need to be redeisgned to be bolted together and modular. This will speed up manufacture and make repairs possible
drum assy.JPG
Looking to get design finished by next week and lasers/ waterjet on order!

[MattLampitt]

Looking very good...
a question about the ram here. You said it was setup 3:1 to give you 8tonne at the tip. But it doesn't look like that on the pic. It looks more like 1:1. Or am I getting lost somewhere here lol.

[Andron4000]

Its a 2 stage weapon.
The hydraulic set up is 1:1. The whole assembly above moves powered by an electric motor, like an axe.
Once we want to start the hydraulic crushing, we need to lock off the electric movement which is the 3:1

[Andron4000]

Hello

Almost done!!

I have spent all weekend designing, and just have a few things left to cut holes in for weight saving.

2016-10-10 1.JPG
As you can see, it is pretty naked at the moment. I have abandoned all armour to figure out how light I can get the main weapon arm and other essentials before trying to protect them.
I have left the 2 arms at the front steel. If nothing else them might be able to take a beating..

2016-10-10 02.JPG
This is the two stage crusher/ piercer. the big disk thing on this side is the drum for the band brake and the little hydraulic cylinder operates it

2016-10-10 03.JPG
The electric motor will operate the arm like an axe.
2016-10-08 03.JPG
The hydraulics will then extend. Both the large and small cylinder extend and retract together, and because of the size difference, the smaller will react faster. this will lock the band brake onto the drum.
The large cylinder is shown at end of stroke here. We are relying on it pushing stuff in towards the main shaft so that all the reactant force arnt going through the band.
The failure mode of the band is hopefully just slippage, rather than snapping the band or shearing the drum flange bolts...


2016-10-10 04.JPG
We have been forced to use the T64 for the axe motor, as we cannot find the weight for a separate circuit to run the 48v ampflow. I'm hoping that at about 1:12 ratio it should have enough power to self right us, and also be a half decent hammer...
This gearing may have to be with a waterjet steel spur gear, again, weight...

2016-10-10 05.JPG
I added these steel bands to give us something for the 'armour' to attach to.
We have a big sheet of 15mm PE1000 in the workshop which weighs 9.5kg. I think this will be the way to go, as you do seem to get quite a lot for the weight.
I'm hoping that if its angled right it might deflect, and the bands will act quite elastic...
2016-10-10 06.JPG
oh yeah, and the arm was clashing with the body so I cut a massive hole in the floor so that we can retract far enough to self right!

I have said hope a lot in this post.

All in all, its looking pretty good. Everything on screen is about 97kg.
Waterjets and lasers should be on order this weekend and we will start sticking it all together next week!





I think we are settled on batteries now and are going for 6 of these

OPTIPOWER LITHIUM CELL 5000 4S


5000mAh 4S lithium cell complete with 12agw plain silicon wires and JST-XH banace connector. 30C rating (true) with 80C burst.


To run 2 in series and 3 parallel (6 total) for 15000mAh capacity, 150 regular output and 400A burst.


-Can I run a single 400amp fuse (like below) just after the batteries, and can this double as my removable link?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEGA-fuse-...3D380474772302


With the lipos, I was hoping to use the FRA discount scheme. I did send an email out on friday to 'grant@robochallenge.co.uk' and 'ros@processmeasurement.uk.com' asking for advice on a charger for the batteries but have not yet got a response. Is there anyone else I can contact, or perhaps another way to get a hold of them?

[Mouldy]

yeah the wheels arent the best for grip, but soon rough up abit and get better... we used them mainly because they weight next to nothing.

Tip- under load (while pushing) you will find the rims spin inside the tyre... i took the rims apart, and put a layer of tiger seal around them, then clamped it all up together (making a total mess in the process) but after it set the tires really take some effort to remove.

Design looks great by the way.

[Andron4000]

Thank you Mouldy. We have had to step it up a gear to get ready for the new series! almost there now though

Hobby king recommended this charger for the 5000mAh, 4s lipos.
They can be charged at 3c,

http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/sto...arehouse_.html

They also recommended a 1000w charger, but it was from their international warehouse and we cannot wait or take the risk of a massive delivery time. I have been looking at computer power supplies, as they have a 12v output, but dont know if this would work.

Does anyone have any suggestions? and will we need anything else other than the charger (above) and the power supply?

[Andron4000]

I found this power supply,
http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/...duct_info.html


could I use this and two of these?

http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/sto...arehouse_.html

Do I need anything else?

[typhoon_driver]

Bear in mind that the 80w charger will only be able to charge your 4s pack at around 4.5A (4.2V x 4 = 16.8V, 80w / 16.8V = 4.7A and a bit).

Your 5Ah pack will therefore take over an hour to charge from fully flat. Probably not a great issue if you have a 2 hour repair window but I always like to be able to charge batteries as quickly as possible. Your packs will withstand a 15A charge if you can deliver it. A 200w charger would be ideal for a 4s 5000mAh pack but I realise not everyone has bottomless pockets!

As far as the power supply, it will do the job fine. You could use a PC power supply as you said. Nothing wrong with taking the 12v lines and running them to a charger if it's a couple hundred watt supply.

edit - just to add, that some PC power supplies can be a bit funny and need certain outputs connected to work.

[Andron4000]

Thank you Gary, I will have another look for a better charger. we will have 6 packs to charge, so even at 2 at a time, we can't spend 3 hours charging batteries!

I think i will stay away from the computer supplys, we probably have enough to do without figuring out weird connections.

Do we need anything else?

[typhoon_driver]

This was the charger that i bought before the last series to do my 4 packs http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/sto...dproduct=82840

Not a bad charger at all. Costs a fair bit but then again it will handle 4 packs at the same time happily.

Apart from any connectors or leads between power supply and charger, you have everything you need.

[Andron4000]

So it has been a while since the last update.
The time pressure was (unfortunately) lifted which has seemed to slow down progress somewhat, however we finally have a (kind of) robot...

https://twitter.com/andron4000/statu...80037268537344

https://twitter.com/andron4000/statu...83399930195968

We are still manufacturing some of the weapon parts, but are slowly getting there.

Final design is yet to be decided. We are struggling with weight, and I think once we are done, will have about 12-15kg for Armour.
This leaves us with few options, pretty much some sort of HDPE/ plastic or a wire wesh, or a combination of both

2016-10-16 01.JPG
2016-10-16 03.JPG
IMG_8076[1].jpg
IMG_8094[1].jpg

IMG_8092[1].jpg

[MattLampitt]

Looking good... I remember you said your having a EN36 steel tip. But I'm curious as to what material you are using for your arm and surrounding area. Obviously this has to take the forces also without bending or sheering.

[Andron4000]

We ended up using tool steel for the tip, as we went for a machined shape rather than a turned spike.
The arms are both just a decent grade of ali, and welded doubler plates and a spine along the arm to resist buckling.