"scratching the surface"

[Jon Smith]

previous Thread here :http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...deas-materials

[Jon Smith]

I like the look of these (Thanks Ellis) http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/GR02...gearmotor.html
24:1 ratio, plain tabs looks my best bet

[Ellis]

If you have plans for a spinner, I'd recommend buying the extra bearing support that bolts to the front of the gearbox, or better still having a bearing support on the other side of the wheel(s). By nature, spinners see huge forces, as not only do they receive the same blows as other bots, they dish them out!

If you mount the wheels very close to the gearbox face you may not need this extra measure, but it's all in the aim of gaining reliability.

[Gaseraki]

Looking forward to the build, best of luck

[Jon Smith]

The motors came with a free bearing kit I believe ("Every GR02 gearmotor sold is supplied with a free external bearing kit, worth £5.70

")

http://www.gimsonrobotics.co.uk/12mm...l-bearing.html that's the bearing I would get

[Jon Smith]

Just stripped out a drying machine motor. seems a bit to heavy for use in a featherweight. I will get a picture asap

[Jon Smith]

WP_000271.jpg

[Ellis]

Chances are that's an AC ~240v motor, designed for mains. You want a DC 12-24v(ish) sort of range motor. Hobby sites sell a selection of "brushless" (vs the traditional brushed) motors, which are the popular kind of motor for today's spinner weapons. I'd suggest reading up on what they're all about, what the numbers mean etc.

[Jon Smith]

yes the voltages are way off anyway I don't want to mess around with 240v because I know how it feels. I was more scavenging for brackets and bearings more than the motor.

[Eventorizon]

No standard house hold appliance will supply you with any decent parts at all mainly as they have no weight limits and as such have low cost parts that do the job but weigh a ton in comparison to something half decent.

The GR02's have a few problems with them that can cause them to fail. The bearing on the front will help somewhat but if you can support the bearing on the other side too.

Sorry if this is a little blunt but your design is very out dated. It looks very much like a machine from series 1 or 2 from robot wars.

You will not hit anyone with your weapon even with your skirts as Pushbots and Flippers will always be lower. Your weapon wants to stick as far out the front of your machine as you can get away with, without compromising strength and rigidity.

The machine is too long to have a good fast turning circle. Most machines these days are more or less square as you get a good turning speed with great stability. This can be messed with to suit your design. For instance my machine is quite a long way off square if you go by the wheels contact points. Its 294mm Wide and 187.5mm long. But maximum dimensions are 415mm x 345mm.

Stick at 12V or 24V to begin with. If you use lipos then go 3S (11.1V) to 6S (22.2V) is where you want top be looking. My first machine ran 2 voltages (One for the drive and one for the weapon). This was a pain to wire up but meant I could focus the weight more precisely towards specific systems.

Sketch and draw your concepts first and have images that you can look at. As mentioned before, the evolution of fighting robots has developed some very robust and strong designs. Don't feel that you are copying someone as they will most likely have copied someone else but tweaked it for their own needs.

Once you have most of it planned out the move to a mix of Cardboard and Sketch up. Many people (me included) have designed things in CAD that are impossible to assemble in reality. Use the Cardboard to double check your logic.

In order of things to buy... get your motors, ESC's, batteries and TX/RX first so you can test your electronic set up. Remember, you can change the chassis design as much as you like to suit your internal parts, but you cant modify your parts to fit the chassis. (If that makes sense)

I would look at the build diaries of these machines...

-Tormenta and Tormenta 2 (Team Expat) Machines built very well on a budget.

-360, 540 and 720 (all under 360 build diary) Some of the best engineering and design

-Scruffy, very solid and reliable machines using basic parts that you aught to be wary of in the arena

-RogueTwoRobots, Some great ideas and engineering with a range of good machines.

-Team Invade, Current UK champs with Explosion, enough said.

-NST, 2012 Champion, Incredible bullet-proof engineering

My own build diary (Eventorizon) covers a large amount of me designing and building Conkers 1, 2 and 3 as well as our 2nd machine Binky. Most of the questions you will have will be answered in that thread.

(Wow... I am have written a lot)

[Jon Smith]

Perfect anyway I was going to scrap my original design because of the inversion problem. I am now looking to see what I can do in terms of full rotation around the body of the robot as that style offers a strong offence and a good shield for defence. I will do some CAD and playing about with card and see what I come up with. so I am off the white board again, thanks for the help

[Jon Smith]

Produced a Design that works inverted and has no active weapons!

[Jon Smith]

spiiner 2 small.jpg

[Jon Smith]

Basic description: Small compact design with ESC's and Lipo's mounted in cutting wedges. Main body is long with 2 GR02 motors to provide power and control. When in combat the robot will spin a high speed on the spot to launch/hit the opponents. Should the robot become inverted the wedges will still be able to apply the same force to the side of the robot. In the correct orientation the Wheels extend less upwards providing more protection although still able to operate inverted. Basic design but with less ability to add active weapons unless up scaled to a heavyweight where more room allows placement of additional motors.(Hint Hint)

[Max]

That style of robot has been built before but needs complicated electronics to make it translate whilst spinning or else no robot will bother driving into you whilst you are spinning.