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Merry Christmas everyone!
Thought I would share my rather mad ideas...
[attachment=1:15kxkn35]HV Conker Concepting 01 800.jpg[/attachment:15kxkn35]
Meet Heavyweight Conker; no idea what I would actually call it.
Two A28-400 Mag-Motors for drive with 180mm wheels. 4 wheel drive created with 32mm T10 timing belts.
400mm disc or bar driven by a Perm PMG-132; the same motor that Last Rights uses for its weapon, running at 48V. The max in the rules is 48V without prior approval, but Last Rights run 58V so maybe I could go higher.
No idea what the chassis will be. Sewer Snake's is all Aluminium so I might be able to make it like that. The idea was to use Hardox Extreme; or what the equivalent, for the Titanium sections on the new machine.
Of course I can't use the spinner here in the UK so my plan is to make the central supports, with all the bits that makes the disc run, removable so I can swap in a hydraulic crusher; different weapon, same bite!
Chances of this ever happening are pretty slim but hey its interesting to see what could be made!
PS PDF here if the pic is to small...[attachment=0:15kxkn35]HV Conker Concepting 01.pdf[/attachment:15kxkn35]
I was going to put the solid state relay from conker 1 straight into conker 2 but the relay says that it is only rated to 30V on the high amp side. I am running 37V (10S) now so will this relay survive or do I need to go and get a new one?
If I do need a new one what can people recommend?
EDIT: Just had a thought could I run each S900 off a 85A botbits ESC?
With the Banebots wheels and the hubs how do you get the ring onto the end to hold the wheels on as brute force doesn't seem to work. Is their some kind of special technique
Firestorm had a sheet of 2mm spring steel across the front to make sure that it would run across the ground. What kind of spring steel and thickness would people think could produce the same kind of effect on a featherweight?
With the Banebots wheels and the hubs how do you get the ring onto the end to hold the wheels on as brute force doesn't seem to work. Is their some kind of special technique
You get dedicated circlip pliers, specially designed to fit in the holes in the circlip that allow you to open them up a bit, making it easier to fit/remove them: http://www.technobotsonline.com/tools-a ... liers.html
Personally I just use an old pair of needle-nose pliers that have a reasonably fine tip. They're not perfect and can sometimes slip out of the holes but get the job done. Just use pliers of some sort to open the clip up and try and fit it around the groove in the Banebots hub. An extra pair of hands can come in useful if you're finding it a bit too fiddly to do on your own.
When I apply power to what should be a finished drive system the receiver and relays inside the ESC's fire on and off at a regular rate rather than staying on. I am using a BEC so that may be cooked but it smells fine.
It could be that I have the cables into the receiver in the wrong way round but I have swapped them over and get the same result.
Does nothing no matter than channel. Rebound the TX and RX and still naught.
EDIT: Just tried another receiver and still nothing... maybe its the transmitter. I had to repair the arial a few weeks ago but I have had it driving since.
There is a switch missing from the transmitter that got damaged and I am in the process of replacing. Would the Gear switch missing matter?
EDIT: It cant be the transmitter if its binding new receivers can it?
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