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cover the holes as soon as possible, during the build there is more change of iron/steel or stuff like that getting in.
I cleaned my the other day, it was closed from day one, i was amazed how much dirt was in it.
going to spend a few hours friday after work on this so ill get it done then
going to parkside steel tomorrow after work to get some 20-20mm box section to start rebuilding the lids and today from work i got some 15mm bar for where the ram connects to the arm. So now thats the flipper side of things completly sorted, just drive mainly now which is being sorted soon as
might have a cheeky go with the weapon friday too by just bodging the pneumatics for now with a random valve some 12mm pipe and spare fittings i have.
Definitely an extensive restoration you've gone to the trouble of doing, looks excellent.
Were the top panels changed purely to upgrade them to Hardox (assuming the old ones were thin-ish steel or something?) or even to change the wheels to something a bit smaller and cover up the holes?
As you mentioned the wheel setup, do they do any good having the wheel cutouts when upside down or were the holes just put these because the wheels were too big?
I've started making new lids because the old ones are from series 7 of robot wars and show it lol they are bent and don't fit properly any more either
they were made from 20-20mm box with 1-2mm steel and with that each panel had 10mm poly on the top where as the new ones im making just have a 20-20mm outer box section frame and 3.2 hardox inside with no poly on the top.
im planning on having 10mm poly around the lower outsides as it used to have to hopefully save the base of the chassis taking anymore major damage/impacts as its not in amazing condition- but over all its not too bad
as for the wheel cut outs as matt said i think, and i don't think the wheels where big enough to run upside down. atm im either 125mm blue wheeling it or go kart wheeling it which in the end will determin whether or not any wheels will stick out of the top
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