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Battle switches are usually powered by the 5/6V line that comes from the receiver - if you've got another speed controller with a BC in the machine (or even a separate Battery Eliminator Circuit) then this will regulate the main power voltage (24V you seem to be using?) to the 5 or 6V needed for the controller boards, including battle switch, so no seperate battery is required.
Yes I am using that motor at 24v ,
Sorry I meant what battery do people use to control a larger relay from the battle switch?
Also I have just wired up everything in my robot and set the travel adjusts on my dx6i spectrum transmitter to 10% so I could check the adjusts were working but what I found was that when I tried to reverse the motor it used only 10% of the power but when I made it go forwards it used all the power and no limiting took place? It was the same with left and right (left 10% power right all the power) what have I done wrong?
For a larger relay (e.g. http://www.jaycarelectronics.co.uk/prod ... BCATID=754 ) you can use either the RC/BEC power or main battery power for the control side - many relays are rated for a range of switching voltages (3-32V in the linked example) so will operate on either. I'd use the BEC circuit if possible to avoid main power shorts.
Not sure about the transmitter, took me ages to refine my settings myself though so just look through the manual/rc forums and I'm sure you'l crack it.
I've solved the transmitter issues (you had to push the channel stick in the direction you want to adjust the travel on)
I've ordered a 40 tooth pulley and a 20 tooth pulley and will see how it goes, if I have problems spinning it up I will change the 20 tooth to something small and then tension the belt with another pulley.
At the moment I have the battle switch running off two double a batteries, how do I use the bec from a sabertooth?
you won't have issues spinning it with a 2:1 ratio. Boner has used speed 900s with a 2.4:1 ratio with a 4kg drum. Spun up no issue. You could probably have gotten away with a 1:1 ratio on a kilo drum.
Been a while since last update because I've just been doing small jobs like the wiring and melting in nuts to hold the bearings. Progress has been halted as I am waiting to get the axels on the drum enlarged (Misread the bearings website) and also need to get the new timming pulley put on it.
Drum has been altered so tomorrow I can Mark out and cut the Ali lid and base plate and then start securing everything
I am however very annoyed that tecnobots have closed for a couple of days I need my fuses,deans and LEDs NOW!!!!!
Hi all,
Just wondering if most people cover the cooling air holes on their speed 900s or if they need the cooling, I am using it to power the drum so it will be on most the time.
I covered mine as well (although the current one is uncovered). Never had a problem with them overheating. They got warm/mildly hot but never anything extreme.
Ideally, some form of fine mesh would be a good compromise. Fine enough to cover the holes to prevent any crud from getting in, but holey enough to keep drawing in some air.
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