Announcement

**Ocracoke** · 11 April 2018, 21:19

Hey there, welcome to the forum!

I don't want to mess around with LiPo's as there's no need seen as I'm not actually fighting with it - what other batteries are viable?

I use LiFePO4 batteries in my Beetleweight Shu! which worked quite nicely at the last Beetleweight event I was in though they give out less power than LiPos (a 3S LiFe battery is 9.9v nominal, 3S LiPo is 11.1v nominal). The other alternative is NiMH batteries but the Lithium batteries are most prevalent.

I need help deciding on what ESC, servos for lifter, transmitter and batteries. Something that is suitable for what I'm doing for also has potential should I want to use them in a proper fighting bot!

Get a transmitter with mixing built in (like the OrangeRX system) as that will cover you in the event that your ESC doesn't do the mixing for you. As far as ESC's go, for a simple plug and go affair, I use a Sabretooth Dual 5A board. A bit expensive for what it is but it works. I know some folks here have had mixed results in the past but I've not really had any issues in using one.

With Shu! also being a lifter, I don't use a servo, I use a single Pololu 37mm 67:1 motor (previously a 131:1 motor but I broke the gearbox) which again, gives enough oomph.The 131:1 motor was enough to lift both Shu! and the opponent before it broke.

I'd recommend going around the build diaries as well to see what works and what doesn't.

**shrimpo94** · 12 April 2018, 18:45

Thanks for your reply!

Being a such a novice, what capacity LifeP04 batteries would I need for a lifter?

Is that ESC suitable to do motors and servo? What is the basic wiring for a robot, including weapon?

Sorry if I'm coming across dumb haha!

**shrimpo94** · 12 April 2018, 21:09

So I've started looking at a few parts, can you tell me if these are suitable?

2 x https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-TORQ...19.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Electr...19.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Absima-2-...cAAOSwo4pYidVc

Just trying to find a suitable ESC, as I don't really want to oay Â£50 for a Sabretooth one, any recommendations?

Thanks.

**Theo** · 12 April 2018, 21:35

-I'm not too experienced on servos, so I'm not the best to comment. However, they seem like a good size for a lifter if you're using two.

-The battery looks a but lacking in power, I should think around 12v is right for beetleweights. You also may want to look for one with less capacity, 2000mAh will likely weigh it down, 1200mAh is a nice capacity.

-The transmitter has a failsafe which is always a plus, but seems a tad limited with only 2 channels. With 2, you won't be able to have the lifter and a working drive system. You should look for 3 at least with this design, I'd look for 4 minimum personally.

**shrimpo94** · 12 April 2018, 21:47

Thanks Theo! Are you able to recommend a 3/4 channel transmitter?

Or a suitable ESC?

Cheers

**Ocracoke** · 12 April 2018, 22:12

Are you able to recommend a 3/4 channel transmitter?

As I mentioned in my last post, a OrangeRX transmitter would do the job here. Alternatively (and this is the one I have use with Shu! before), a FlySky TX/RX works fine as well.

The batteries you linked to are... OK but for reference, Shu! uses a 3S 9.9v 1500 milliamp LiFePO4 battery for the battery and a separate battery of the same specification for the weapon. Technically, this means the robot is running under volts as the motors are 12v but I've not had any issues in capacity with them.

Is that ESC suitable to do motors and servo?

The Sabretooth will run the drive motors. Personally, I wouldn't use a servo as the draw on those through the receiver might cause issues but the flip side is that if you use a servo, you don't need a weapon ESC.

What is the basic wiring for a robot, including weapon?

Below is a basic diagram of a drive system ESC where it assumes you have two separate ESCs, one for each drive wheel and the mixing is handled elsewhere. The weapon circuit in Shu! is literally half of this.

basic_robotics_diagram.png

If you did get a ESC that has mixing on it, such as the Sabretooth or similar, you'd only have the one ESC in that diagram as above linked to the two motors.

**Deathly Hallows** · 12 April 2018, 22:57

I would just add that I understand that each ESC feeds power to the receiver. So if you have two, you are best to remove the middle red wire from the feed from one of those ESC to RX links.

I did this on my Beetleweight.

**Theo** · 12 April 2018, 23:48

I currently have a Hitec Optic 5 iirc. 5 channels, failsafe and two antennae for range and reliability. The fifth channel is a button in the side, ideal for flippers/spinners that use solenoids.

**shrimpo94** · 13 April 2018, 06:50

Thanks everyone for your help! How does the transmitter receiver fit into the wiring diagram?

**shrimpo94** · 13 April 2018, 08:28

So is this transmitter/receiver better?
https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-FS-i4X...MaAj2rEALw_wcB

Battery: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...tter-pack.html

ESC: https://www.robotshop.com/uk/saberto...rc-driver.html

**Ocracoke** · 13 April 2018, 08:47

So is this transmitter/receiver better?

I don't use that particular variant so I can't comment but so long as the receiver failsafes to a safe/off position, it then comes down to what you want out of a transmitter.

The battery and ESC linked to are those used in Shu! but they are on the weak side of what would be "normal" for a Beetleweight I think. Then again, the ESC is something I had laying around rather than "being ideal" and the battery choice was because I am a bit iffy about using LiPo batteries but slowly coming to use them.

Ultimately, the parts you choose depends on what you want out of your robot. I'd again advise reading the build threads to see what folks are using so you know what works and what doesn't.

I would just add that I understand that each ESC feeds power to the receiver. So if you have two, you are best to remove the middle red wire from the feed from one of those ESC to RX links.

I found that I didn't need to do this in Shu! but did need to do this in The Honey Badger so depends on the implementation I would have thought.

**shrimpo94** · 14 April 2018, 17:29

The servos I'm thinking to use are rated for 4.8V - 6V, but the battery I have looked at getting is 9.9V - does this mean being over volted, the servos will not work/burn out?

**Deathly Hallows** · 14 April 2018, 22:09

I bought a flysky i6 transmitter and receiver pair for around Â£30 on eBay. I got it because it was cheap, but so far I found it very capable. Multiple models supported, lots of channels and cheap receivers from Turnigy and Flysky you can get for Â£7-10 a pop.

**Retroman** · 20 April 2018, 22:29

I too have a flysky fsi6, and it work ell with my other toys, I can recommend it as a starter, it even allows you t set your ow failsafe states of required.

But then I'm the guy who built a machine that was totally incompatible with his tx...

Announcement

First Robot

First Robot

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment